I just did this job, and then some. The video is helpful, but I was a bit surprised how complicated it made some aspects of the job seem. Overall, this job is about a 3 or 4 on a scale of 1-10
if you have the proper parts and
if you are reasonably competent with tools. A 1 would be changing a tire. A 10 would be changing an engine. If you do all of the crossovers, the pump, the thermostat, and the belts, it's about 5 hours. Add an hour to unbox parts and properly setup your work area and stare at things a bit in wild apprehension. I ended up with more like 7 or 8 into it because I also did a carbon cleaning of the valves while I was in there, and did it the time-consuming way with chemicals and zip ties and brushes in a drill instead of walnut shells.
There appears to be no good stickied DIY thread for this, so I'll post this here since I doubt I will have time to make a proper sticky worthy post with photos. The video is helpful, although you would be well advised to turn the speed to 1.5x to watch it. Hopefully this written explanation will help with the job. It's basically a compilation of instructions I made for myself to do it, since I could not find good written instructions anywhere.
PARTS LIST:
LR018275 - Front coolant crossover. NOTE: I used a $20 Amazon Chinesium part. Can it be worse than OEM? It's seam welded plastic for goodness sake. Fitment was fine.
LR109402 - Rear coolant crossover. See note above.
LR011038 - Bleeder Cap (not strictly necessary--a spare for if you break it). Cheapo Amazon part fit a bit tight.
LR032135 - Thermostat (not strictly necessary--but worth doing). Did not trust part made from Amazon Chinesium, but Rockauto or other trusted 3rd party should do fine.
LR064185 - Serpentine Belt (any quality brand will work. Check Amazon. I used Goodyear. Fit fine.)
LR012663 - Stretch belt (Again, any quality brand will do)
LR028136 - Oil cooler plastic connector thing from WP to oil cooler (I used an "upgraded" aluminum part. Fit fine and came with o-rings)
LR030593 - Oil cooler line o-ring (needed if use OEM part)
LR097165 - Water pump (I used a Beck Arnley).
LR049989 -- Small coolant hose from stat to engine. Replace it while you're in there because why not? Again, $30 Amazon part, but see note below.
LR045238 -- Small coolant hose. Goes with above hose. NOTE: Buy Miami British kit off Amazon with both hoses if non Amazon Chinesium part desired. Available on Amazon or from Miami British.
LR049990 -- ALTERNATE TO ABOVE TWO PARTS: If you will re-use existing hoses, buy this brass part off Amazon just in case you break the little plastic elbow.
That ought to be all of the parts you need for replacing parts unless you want to go whole hog and replace every last rubber hose. Mine had 140k on them and this was not necessary, but YMMV. The last two hoses I also ended up leaving since mine was a 2011 (which had an older style) and had the new hoses. Clearly, they had already been replaced.
If you buy the proper cheapo parts on Amazon you'll have all the gaskets you need. Otherwise, you might want to buy intake manifold gaskets, and will need to buy pump and oil cooler tube gaskets. My cheap Amazon parts came with all needed gaskets. My upgraded aluminum tube came with the necessary o-ring. My Beck Arnley pump came with gaskets for that. Some other thing came with manifold gaskets. T
AKE NOTE: If you insist on buying the overpriced Land Rover parts, they'll also ding you separately for gaskets. Do not buy Land Rover parts and forget to buy gaskets.
TORQUE SPECS:
Water pump bolts: 12nm
Intake: 25nm
Crossover bolts: 10nm
Fuel line: 21nm
Tensioner pulley: 40nm
WATER PUMP REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS:
LR4 - Land Rover LR4 5.0 water pump replacement DIY - Tools 7mm socket (or flat screwdriver) for hose clamps Hose pick Hose clamp pliers Bent nose pliers Long ⅜ ratchet to release tension on belt tensioner 15mm socket with long ratchet to remove belt tensioner T30 torx for water pump bolts 36mm...
landroverforums.com
TOOLS:
* Mirror on an extendo stick with built in light from Amazon will be helpful.
* Small 1/4 torque wrench from Amazon will be helpful. I used a "YIYIEI" off Amazon. It worked fine. You do NOT need a "presta" tool as shown in the video. Standard wrench is fine and very easy access.
* 3/8 torque wrench for manifold and fuel nuts. I used a Proto, but a Harbor Freight or any cheap Amazon tool will do. Click type is fine.
* Set of 1/4 wrenches including variety of extensions, a swivel, and complete 1/4 Torx bits including T30. Note: Above listed Torque wrench will include proper bits. Recommend buying Lisle if you want smaller quality pieces, but the Chinesiums work fine.
* Set of 3/8 wrenches including variety of extensions, a swivel, and complete 3/8 Torx bits including T30. Again, Lisle's are great if you're a tool snob.
* Water pump pressure tester and vacuum extractor. Buy a combined set on Amazon. I bought a "WNZ Universal" kit.
* 36mm FAN CLUTCH TOOL. Mine was a "SMOTIVE PRO" for Ford from Amazon. It cost about $22. They also have an air hammer version. The old "bang it with a 3 pound hammer" version worked fine. Air hammer would be easier and probably foolproof.
* 3/8 cordless ratchet: Optional, but nice to have for turning nuts. Will save you some time. Check Amazon, or buy a Dewalt or Milwaukee if you like spending money. I used a Milwaukee.
* 17mm crows foot wrench. Pipe version if you're picky.
* Egg carton (use to label removed screws, and place in holes in egg carton to keep straight)
* TRIM CLIP REMOVERS. You will want a small one, and a LONG HANDLE TOOL. You may have small nylon ones ($10 on Amazon--buy if you don't have), but probably do not have a 2' long one. I had a quality tool on hand, but the tools that go by the name of "Buckle Trim Screw Driver Car Door" trim tool seem to be functional equivalents. $20 to $30 on Amazon. This tool will be your best friend on this job for everything from removing dozens of clips to stuff it into stuck large water pump hoses to dislodge them.
* Variety of channel locks for loosening coolant hose clamps.
INSTRUCTIONS:
Place vehicle in access height.
Open hood and place in service position. You will see little tabs on the hood you can pop out which allow you to open the hood extra far and then secure it with the tabs. So, remove struts. open it up, and pop in the tabs.
Disconnect positive battery cable.
Remove air plenum. There are three screw clamps to remove. One from each of the air filter boxes and one from the throttle body. There is also a breather hose on the driver side. Pinch to release. It will pop off. It is stretched fairly tight. SEE INSTRUCTIONS IN LINKED WATER PUMP DIY.
Remove fuel line, which is the shiny stainless line on the front of the manifold. You can disconnect it with a 17mm wrench. One fitting on each side of manifold. Crows foot recommended, and best to have a crow's foot to replace. Use a Torx T30 to remove fuel line securing nuts on top of manifold. There is also a small coolant fitting to remove. As a precautionary measure, cover the fuel lines with masking tape.
At some point, drain down the coolant. Since you have a handy-dandy coolant system pressure tester, there is an easy way to do this. Hook it up. Pop off a small coolant line. Place line in empty container. Pump up system until coolant stops coming out. You've now just removed probably enough coolant to do the job from the top of the engine. Handy, huh? I pulled almost two gallons out like this.
NOTE ON COOLANT FITTINGS: If they have a clamp, move the clamp back and remove. Screwdrivers, picks, and Big trim tool is your friend for clamped hoses. Other hoses without clamps are quick fittings. You will see a plastic ring that the hose is seated on. Press the ring back hard with a 10mm or so wrench, and pull the hose.
Manifold Removal: At the back of the manifold, you'll have to remove a few connectors. There are some T30s holding on wiring harness bolts on the back. Remove those. Then there are various Christmas tree trim clips holding wires in place. Use your clip tools to free those up and pop them off if you can. One is on the very back passenger, and you'll have a tough time getting it or noticing it until the manifold doesn't want to come out. There's also a fitting mid-way over the passenger valve cover with a black button on it. Pull this fitting here to avoid having to remove some of the connections in the back of the manifold. Trace it out and you'll find what they connect to. No point bothering with stuff on the back of the manifold if you don't have to. Ideally, you will not have to remove these but may vary depending on how things have been taken apart and put back together before. If you do need to remove those two vacuum fittings, do it after you can pull the manifold forward an inch or two. The MAP sensor connector, throttle body connector, EGR and other various vacuum fittings and so forth in the front of the manifold should all be very obvious.
After disconnecting as much stuff as you can and popping as many clips and connectors as you can see hooked into the manifold, clean up the manifold with a shop vac to get rid of as much grit, dirt, coolant etc. as possible. You don't have to go overboard, but you don't need all that trash in the engine.
Remove manifold bolts. There are 10 total manifold bolts. Cordless 3/8 ratchet will make quick work of it, or use hand tools. [Note that when REPLACING the manifold, you should cross-torque them. Just like putting a wheel back on. That means don't do one side and then the other. Do them "zig zag". Then retorque again.] Once the bolts are off, wiggle around the manifold to try to loosen it. If you see stuff that is still connected to it and won't let it free, remove the stuff. There will probably still be some Christmas trees you missed at the back. Use your nylon tool or big handy 2 foot long trim clip tool to pop them off. Don't worry, you'll get it eventually. Now, once you have it off, stuff the open intake holes with cotton rags or shop towels. Or tape them. It doesn't matter. You just don't want to accidentally drop bolts into the heads which will destroy the engine. PLUG THE HOLES. Once free move the manifold a bit and remove and remaining connectors you missed. Once you free the manifold, leave the bottom coolant hose and other lengthy bits connected, and just set it off to the side. Note that there are some clips on the bottom which connect a coolant hose. They are probably broken already. If not, pop them open to get enough length in the hoses to move it off to the side. [Yes, this is not a detailed point-by-point. Once you get up to doing this, you will see why. A detailed list would not do much good. Literally, just take stuff apart. Mirror on a stick can help show what is back there.]
If you watch the video, you will see a lot of cutting of tape on the rear wire harness. This is not necessary. All of this should come apart with that harness ni place. If you feel a need to remove it for access, then do so. Again, unless someone has gotten in there any mucked around though, there should be only a couple of connectors coming out of the harness that need to be disconnected from the manifold. I wish I had not touched this harness.
Front Crossover: With the manifold off, you can do the front crossover pipe. Remove with T30 Torx. Where are the bolts? Look where they go on the new part....Two where it goes into the the block and one in the front. Remove various clamps to remove coolant hoses. Also, note that the crossover may seem very stuck in the block. Once again, 2' trim tool is useful to pry it out of the block. If you break it, don't worry. Just use picks and screwdrivers to get the busted pieces out. Put some towels around it before popping it out. You will lose more coolant. Do not forget to install bleeder cap
LR011038.
Belts, Fan, and Pump Removal: At this point, you have a choice to make. You can replace the serpentine belts and water pump, or not. I have no idea why you would tear all this stuff down and leave them. You probably should replace them unless they are reasonably new. So, go follow the WATER PUMP DIY LINKED ABOVE TO REPLACE THE PUMP.
Now, a few extra tips when doing this bit: If you are replacing the belts, you will need to first loosen the tensioner. Use a 3/8 breaker bar or your 3/8 torque wrench which probably has a nice, long handle on it. Then pull the belt off the idler pulley on the passenger side. For the stretch belt, see two paragraphs below. Now you need to pull the tensioner unit itself. This is a 15mm hex. Spin the tensioner pulley and idler pulley. If they are bad, replace. [TIP: You don't need to replace the whole unit, just the bearings. The idler pulley, at least, you can buy from Autozone. Theirs is not quite the right size, but it will work. The bearing *is* the same size, though. So, you can press out the bearing from each and swap the pulley if you want the right size pulley. A vice, a large socket, and a hammer will work for this.] To get the fan off with your fan wrench, you're going to literally hammer on the end of the tool with big swings of a hammer, if you've not done this before. As the guide notes, it's a reverse thread, and I believe you're hammering from passenger to driver. Again, for stuck coolant hoses that don't want to come off the pump, use a flathead or your giant trim tab tool to separate it and muscle it off. The small plastic elbow going into the water pump on
LR049989 you will want to replace with the metal brass elbow
LR049990 if you break the original and did not buy a new hose. This one is a quick connect. Remember how to remove those? Use the open end of a wrench to push down ring firmly, and give it a tug. When you install the oil cooler tube
LR028136 make sure you seat it properly. Oh, and the fitment on the oil cooler tube gasket is weird. Don't sweat it. It's supposed to be like that. Finally, that barbed "fitting" on
LR045238? It is plugged. Nothing connects to it.
Thermostat: If you are doing the thermostat, do that right now while you have lots of extra room. My recollection is that there is one T30 here which is a real pain. You'll need a number of 3/8 extensions and a T30 to get to it. Actually, I can't remember exactly where it is or what it does or when in the sequence it comes off., but I think it's now... You'll know it when you see it and think, "how can I get that off?". This is where the 3/8 cordless ratchet, extension, and the 3/8 swivel will come in
really helpful. The thermostat itself is held in with a metal clip. Slid it out about a half inch or so. The stat is a plastic friction fit. If it's stuck, you'll need to just beat it off with a flat head screw drive and a hammer. There are hammer points to do this. After removing stat, replace with new one immediately.
NOTE ABOUT COOLANT HOSES: If you bought new hoses for this, there are alignment marks on this to align then to the plastic bits. That's what those white lines and the plastic tabs are for. If you did not, and you disassemble this (which you might need do) MARK WITH GREASE PAINT. Correct orientation of hoses in this area is essential.
Partial Reassembly: Now you have to decide whether to do the rear crossover, or begin partial reassembly. I started reassembling. New pump on, and front crossover on. Lube up any o-rings with a bit of coolant. Install new hoses or re-use existing. Reinstall all hose clamps as you put hoses back on. Don't forget the bleeder cap plug on the new front crossover. Use the new one you bought or re-use the original. Tensioner and belts back on. Since you sorted your bolts with the egg carton, you'll know you got them all back in.
BE SURE ALL OLD GASKETS AND O-RINGS ARE REMOVED BEFORE PUTTING ON NEW PARTS.
Belts Reassembly: A word on belts: The serpentine is easy. The stretch belt is a bear. You need a big socket on the crank bolt. I did not write down the size, but I believe it is a 24mm. If you don't have one, a 15/16 might also fit. Then you need to take that stretch belt and first put it on the small pulley, and get as much as you can onto the big pulley. Now, if you have a stretch bolt removal/replacement tool, this might be easy. Insert pieces of plastic, rotate engine. I did not. I used my giant trim tool to apply force to this belt to remove the belt while spinning the engine (although I could have just cut it, I didn't) to weasel it off. To get it on, I used a small vice grips or two. Use vice grip to hold belt on crank pulley. The vice grip will clamp the belt to the pulley, with the handle pointing toward the front of the car. Rotate engine. Put on another vice grips. When belt reaches fully engaged point, remove vice grips. This works quite easily. Now you know. DO NOT REPLACE MANIFOLD YET.
Rear Crossover: Now for the rear crossover. This is where the fun will start for some of you, especially if you're vertically challenged, although it's not that bad, really. It's just a reach. Basically, you have one connector to pop off I believe, four bolts, and a coolant hose Three of the bolts are easy. The fourth, which is all the way toward passenger, is not as easy. But it's also not hard. Remember your tool list which included "various 1/4" extensions"? Use them. A pair of 2", a 4" Maybe a 2" plus a 4". I don't remember. But
if you use the right extensions there is plenty of room to get in there to get them out and to get back in with a torque wrench to tighten. Before replacing this, be sure to clean the mating surface for the o-ring with a little bit of scotch brite pad. This has been made out to be more difficult than it is. You need NO specialty tool for this, unless you consider a 1/4 torque wrench, extensions, or possibly a wobble extension or a swivel to be a "speciality" tool. There is no cutting down of tools, making tools, or any of that stuff showing in the video. I have absolutely no idea why you would do any of that. Everything is easily accessible with the cheapy torque wrench and extensions. Retighten to snug with wratchet, torquen with 1/4 torque wrench.
EDIT: Cannot emphasize importance of proper extensions enough. Buy an extra set of them for $8 if you don't have a box full. Buy a $10 wobble set if you don't have a 1/4 wobble extension set. Have a good stool to extend your reach. These videos will help:
and
. The second video he pulls the loom loose for access, but leaves it in place. Whether you need to do this depends how big your hands are and manual dexterity. You should NEVER need to cut it all apart and remove the piece of plastic entirely.
Clean Valves: [OPTIONAL: Before replacing the manifold, I did a carbon cleaning of the valves. This is not really necessary, but as long as it was apart, I thought, "why not?" You can walnut blast or you can do it with chemicals and abrasive items on a drill. Look up the zip-tie method. I did that, used some picks, and some nice plumbing brushes on a drill along with B12 chemtool and chlorinated brake cleaner. Then rags to soak it up and vacuum out any crap. Make sure you do NOT try to clean an open valve. Inspect all valves thoroughly before replacing manifold to ensure clear. You can also get some throttle body cleaner and MAF cleaner and clean those while you are at it to get that servicing out of the way.]
Replace Manifold and Various Parts: Now that this is done, replace the manifold gaskets (remove with a pick), put the manifold back on, and then tend to anything else that is still pulled apart. Pop all of the Christmas trees back in or zip tie things up if broken to ensure no abrasion of wires and such. And yes, two connectors towards the back are the same. Do not get them mixed up. I have no idea how anyone would do that, but it's been done. Be mindful of that. Put it all back together neatly, insert Christmas trees back where they go, and you'll be good. If clips are broken, just ziptie the stuff in place. NOTE: The vacuum ports (if I recall correctly) on the back of the manifold are REALLY hard to get to. There are two of these. These should be inserted BEFORE replacing the manifold. The plastic pipe referenced above with the black push button connector is the proper "reattachment" point for reassembly. The fuel line will need a crows foot. Use that, a shorty extension, and your torque wrench to torque them down to spec. Yes, these are really concise instructions on reassembly, but you should not need more. The torque specs are up above, and you literally just took all of this stuff apart within the last few hours. Put it all together, and check again that you reconnected every connector, inserted every hose, and GOT ALL COOLANT CLAMPS BACK ON. Check and double check.
If the fan is not back on yet, put the fan on and put the housing back over it.
The final step to assembly is putting the plastic air plenum back on. This is easy, but the front breather hose is TIGHT. Pull until it clicks in. Check the routing against the pictures in the water pump sticky if you can't get it because you routed it wrong. Get that on, reconnect the battery, then put the engine cover on.
Testing and Start up: Now, test your work. Attach the coolant pressure tester. Pressurize the system and see if it holds. If it holds for, oh, 15 or 20 minutes, call it good. If it doesn't, find your mistake and have fun! Assuming it holds, hook up the vacuum extractor to your air compressor. Use vacuum refill to to load the system with coolant. If you have no compressor, do not despair. Just fill it up and bleed it. Start engine 20 seconds. Stop engine. Check coolant. Add coolant if necessary (hint: it likely will be). Start engine and run for a minute, check coolant. Add more if necessary. Now start engine 5 to 10 minutes. Monitor coolant level and
make sure the gauge moves after a few minutes and a bubble is not stopping flow. Revving the engine a few times while doing this can help move bubbles through. Shut down car. Wait a couple minutes. Open coolant tank
carefully and slowly (do not scald yourself!) to add more coolant if necessary. If it all looks good, then fire it back up, and bleed it. When hot, you should just have to open the bleeder on the tank (the plastic thing) until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Again, it's HOT. There is another bleeder on the passenger side rear. Open that until you get a steady stream. Note that if you used a vacuum fill, the bleed steps may not be necessary. Button it all up, and keep an eye on the levels for a week. They might drop some and require a bit until normalizing.
Hopefully this helps someone. It's not 100% perfect or complete since I did the job about a month ago, and have probably forgotten a few minor things. But, I have been meaning to post something since I found it frustrating there was nothing even resembling a complete write-up. The video is helpful with its thoroughness, but I find a write up can be more helpful with torque specs, tools, and some basic instructions in one readable spot when you are on the job. The video also made me dread the job somewhat with all of these bike tools and "24 hour wrench" time comments in it. No. Five or six hours if you've done any modest wrenching under a hood before and have dealt with coolant hoses, connectors, and trim clips. If you have no clue how to remove trim clips and connectors, have never used a torque wrench, and have never taken off a coolant hose, this might not be the job for you unless you have a LOT of time on your hands and want to learn a few things... Then you might have that 24 hour wrench time while you stare at a connector for 2 hours trying to figure out just how it comes apart... But that's
pretty unlikely if you just get in there, and go for it.
