I was worried about short trips and high eloads but even at -30 with front/rear window 3-4 heated seats going etc my trickle charger switched to float after about 2 hours on my 3 year old battery. That suggests to me the vehicle is keeping up with it.
Maintenance charger for battery
- Thread starter Frank8
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I have been using the CTEK US3300 retainer for probably the past ten years or so.
It is the 3.3 amp model that charges at 14.4 VDC for summer and 14.7 VDC in winter mode.
My 3 is a daily driver so about for a week of nights every three months or so, I will connect it to bring my Interstate batteries back up to near full charge.
For whatever reason, it does not matter how much you drive, the 3's charging system is not capable of getting the batterys much past an 80% state of charge. I do not know if the 4's are much different, but I doubt it.
I say batterys as per below, I have the Traxide dual battery system installed.
The CTEK US3300 user manual is also attached.
It is the 3.3 amp model that charges at 14.4 VDC for summer and 14.7 VDC in winter mode.
My 3 is a daily driver so about for a week of nights every three months or so, I will connect it to bring my Interstate batteries back up to near full charge.
For whatever reason, it does not matter how much you drive, the 3's charging system is not capable of getting the batterys much past an 80% state of charge. I do not know if the 4's are much different, but I doubt it.
I say batterys as per below, I have the Traxide dual battery system installed.
The CTEK US3300 user manual is also attached.
If it will be parked for more than 2 weeks at a time on a fairly regular basis... a trickle/maintenance charger may not be a bad idea. If you do buy one, don't cheap out. I prefer models with automatic desulfation/reconditioning, like the PulseTech Xtreme Charge, or one of the higher-end C-TEK units.
Easy way to make sure you don't forget to disconnect - pop the hood when the charger is attached. In theory, you'll remember why the hood is up and not just close it & drive off without unplugging first.
Easy way to make sure you don't forget to disconnect - pop the hood when the charger is attached. In theory, you'll remember why the hood is up and not just close it & drive off without unplugging first.
buckbluerover
Member
I have used a "Battery Tender" with dedicated harness connected to the battery for easy access on cars and airplanes for over 30 years. Have never had a problem it seems to prolong battery life. Harnesses and extensions with capped plugs are available on eBay.
Are your talking about an Anderson Plug? I think could be very useful for a RR with it's desperate to be always in need of power.
I have used a solar trickle charger when leaving the car at an airport. At home I use a low voltage charger, and have the anderson plugs to install - on the "one day" list.
I have used a solar trickle charger when leaving the car at an airport. At home I use a low voltage charger, and have the anderson plugs to install - on the "one day" list.
Winter is back here in the North and again my truck battery is not going to start her after sitting for a week. Same issue as last year. It on street parking so not a good place to string power out to it. I was thinking of mounting a solar trickle charger (Amazon has this one) on the roof rack. Wondering if anyone has done the same. If so, how do you get that a-pillar off so I can hide the wires to the battery?
The Amazon unit is really designed for interior use, although the seller and some buyers claim it works ok mounted externally. One reviewer mentioned sealing up the housing with silicone caulk, which sounds like a good idea. I'd get a larger one (higher wattage), and keep in mind these don't charge much on cloudy days.
While these may not be in your budget, PulseTech has units designed for external mounting, and are commercial / military grade. As a bonus they also desulfate the battery:
https://www.pulsetech.net/store/sol...-solar-chargers.html?product_list_order=price
Note the Amazon unit appears to have a 1-year warranty, PulseTech has a 10-year warranty.
While these may not be in your budget, PulseTech has units designed for external mounting, and are commercial / military grade. As a bonus they also desulfate the battery:
https://www.pulsetech.net/store/sol...-solar-chargers.html?product_list_order=price
Note the Amazon unit appears to have a 1-year warranty, PulseTech has a 10-year warranty.
My post #12 above makes reference to the CTEK Multi US 3300 charger that I use. The jpg with the CTEK is just resting on the bumper is for information - the hood stays closed when I charge and the CTEK remains on a shelf. The electrical plugs are the GM Delphi Weather Pack type and the one resting on the switch box is to plug into the switch box pigtail when not in use to keep pigtail connector internals clean.
Below are jpg's of the switching hookup off the two batteries. The switch box is just that, a Double Pole, Double Throw, Centre Off toggle switch for transferring charging from one battery to the other or neither.
I switch both the ground and the positive - probably not necessary re the ground, but ....
The pigtail tucks up inside the grill when not in use and I can toggle the switch with my fingers thru the grill, hence the hood never opens in normal use of the maintainer.
I have ten amp fuses in the leads between the positive post of each battery and the toggle switch. The CTEK is good for a maximum of three amps - the fuse rating is just to protect from some sort of short.
I do the maintenance charge thing for about a month of nights twice a year, fall and spring. I have a garage that I park the 3 in.
My 3 is a daily driver - gets maybe 50 miles a day perhaps three times a week and 30 miles a day the rest. In spite of that, the charge system never really fully charges the batteries, hence the advisability of a routine top up at least twice a year.
My Interstate batteries last about six years - always die off warranty.
Below are jpg's of the switching hookup off the two batteries. The switch box is just that, a Double Pole, Double Throw, Centre Off toggle switch for transferring charging from one battery to the other or neither.
I switch both the ground and the positive - probably not necessary re the ground, but ....
The pigtail tucks up inside the grill when not in use and I can toggle the switch with my fingers thru the grill, hence the hood never opens in normal use of the maintainer.
I have ten amp fuses in the leads between the positive post of each battery and the toggle switch. The CTEK is good for a maximum of three amps - the fuse rating is just to protect from some sort of short.
I do the maintenance charge thing for about a month of nights twice a year, fall and spring. I have a garage that I park the 3 in.
My 3 is a daily driver - gets maybe 50 miles a day perhaps three times a week and 30 miles a day the rest. In spite of that, the charge system never really fully charges the batteries, hence the advisability of a routine top up at least twice a year.
My Interstate batteries last about six years - always die off warranty.
