Oil leak?

MW3Designs

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Ok, so for the timing chain kit, where is the best place to get the kit? I was thinking Atlantic British?
 

MW3Designs

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Sitting here ordering parts to tackle this job, I can’t help but think there is something else that is leaking. This whole thread started with what was a few good drops on the driveway, but it quickly progressed to a lot of oil leaking. It’s been parked till I get to it, but could a leak that bad have happened all of a sudden at the valve cover or timing cover? It’s like something just failed... lol


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DaytonaRS7

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assuming you had the belly pan(s) on, the leak could have been pooling oil in them, until it spilled over the edge.

you are correct, oil leaks typically happen gradually, unless catasrophic. but based on the photos you had, there have been leaks in the cars past and without a good cleaning and seeing where the new oil is coming from, you have to assume that the old (slow) leaks never stopped.

have you cleaned the entire engine since the vaccuum pump replacement?
you should, and then drive it for some miles to see any new wet spots.
 

MW3Designs

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have you cleaned the entire engine since the vaccuum pump replacement?
you should, and then drive it for some miles to see any new wet spots.


I haven't given it a proper cleaning / degreasing, but I guess that is a mute point considering I have committed to the Timing Chain / Guide / Tensioner Replacement. Even if I found a leak that was an easy fix, these things need the timing chain addressed anyway.

Check out this pic of the "Texas Twister"..... that's one way to get the injectors out.

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portlandlife

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IMO you should give the engine a good cleaning and then drive it, park it, and check it. Maybe you'll be better able to isolate the leak. As you said, you're committed to replace the tensioners which is good. However, if it doesn't solve the leak, you'll be back to square one. And if you can determine the exact cause, it may be in a location where you can tackle it when you have everything apart doing the timing chain guides. Curious, what other parts are you planning to replace when you do the tensioners... water pump? valve cover gaskets? new injectors?
 

MW3Designs

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IMO you should give the engine a good cleaning and then drive it, park it, and check it. Maybe you'll be better able to isolate the leak. As you said, you're committed to replace the tensioners which is good. However, if it doesn't solve the leak, you'll be back to square one. And if you can determine the exact cause, it may be in a location where you can tackle it when you have everything apart doing the timing chain guides. Curious, what other parts are you planning to replace when you do the tensioners... water pump? valve cover gaskets? new injectors?
I’m planning to do the whole timing chain kit, so new chains, guides, tensioners, valve cover gaskets. I’ve read enough forums to know I should just change the chains while I’m there, some say they stretch, and with 125k on the clock why not. As for other accessories, water pump for sure, alternator if I can see that oil has been leaking into it. Injectors I am going to see what happens, I’ve had some people say buy them because I’m going to break them. I will see what happens, those are easy enough once I make it to that point of reinstall.

I know my valve clover are starting to seep oil, and I’m thinking the oil is leaking from there as well as the timing cover. If I give it a engine degrease I might make other leak worse by cleaning any sludge that might be holding back the seepage, I’m not driving it, but maybe cleaning it would be a positive before I start the work.

I’ve watched a couple of good YouTube videos over and over, only thing I’m not sure about is tensioning the variators, have to watch that a few dozen more times. I have not one wrenching buddy that is familiar with Land Rover so I am headed into uncharted territory. Today the tools started arriving, got the crank pulley puller, cam lock, and injector puller, just waiting on the injector seal tool.


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MW3Designs

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I see some people replacing the tensioners and guides, others the tensioners guides and chains too.

It is my understanding that the tensioners had some issues, but what about the chains themselves? Why would someone go in that deep and only change the tensioners / guides?


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DaytonaRS7

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im taking this as you are doing the timing chain job as preventative then? good for you if thats the case.

or you know that your timing covers are the issue, and you may as well do the guides while youre in there?

If i was me, id replace the chains while in there.
 

MW3Designs

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im taking this as you are doing the timing chain job as preventative then? good for you if thats the case.

or you know that your timing covers are the issue, and you may as well do the guides while youre in there?

If i was me, id replace the chains while in there.
Yes, preventative from what I’ve read about the tensioners.


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MW3Designs

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As I am getting everything ready for my timing chain install, I realized last night that there are two sections in the shop manual for the 5.0 V8 Petrol Timing Chain replacement. One for INA and the other for TSubaki. After doing a little searching I found this:

There were two types of timing chain systems fitted to the 5.0 v8 engine - Tsubaki, with 6.35mm chain pitch, and INA, with 8.0mm chain pitch. It's important to note that with the different chain pitches, the only thing common between the two are the guides and the tensioners. Everything else - the chains, the VVT units, the sprocket on the end of the crank, the oil pump sprocket, and the auxiliary driveshaft sprocket (which can't be changed) are all the same drive pitch.

How can we tell what Timing Chain we have? Vin number?


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