Onboard Spare parts when off-roading/overlanding

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CRYA

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I carry a full 3/8 socket set with deep and shallow sockets, extensions, elbows, 1/2 torque wrench with a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer, ratcheting wrenches, thin wrenches, and just make sure your kit has T20-T55 sockets and 8mm-19mm sizes, including 16mm and 18mm.

As far as suspension issues go, build yourself an EAS bypass kit. Use a 6mm straight union, 6mm tubing, and a 6mm push fit schrader valve. Plug 1 ft of tubing between the straight union and schrader valve. In the event of a catastrophic failure, unplug fuse F3 and F26, cut your airline above the brass fitting, plug the union into the strut(s), and pump up each corner. When you're in a safe area to fix the issue, just use the union to combine the existing 6mm tubing.

The only 290 PSI rated straight union: https://www.grainger.com/product/LEGRIS-6mm-Plastic-Union-1DED8
Awesome thanks buddy. For the 6mm tubing, that's gotta be nylon and it's 6mm O.D. correct? Source from Grainger also?
 
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BeemerNut

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I carry a full 3/8 socket set with deep and shallow sockets, extensions, elbows, 1/2 torque wrench with a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer, ratcheting wrenches, thin wrenches, and just make sure your kit has T20-T55 sockets and 8mm-19mm sizes, including 16mm and 18mm.

As far as suspension issues go, build yourself an EAS bypass kit. Use a 6mm straight union, 6mm tubing, and a 6mm push fit schrader valve. Plug 1 ft of tubing between the straight union and schrader valve. In the event of a catastrophic failure, unplug fuse F3 and F26, cut your airline above the brass fitting, plug the union into the strut(s), and pump up each corner. When you're in a safe area to fix the issue, just use the union to combine the existing 6mm tubing.

The only 290 PSI rated straight union: https://www.grainger.com/product/LEGRIS-6mm-Plastic-Union-1DEDBy


"pump up each corner" this a good enough idea eyeballing level method. Footprint contact psi that wouldn't be the best at highway speeds with handling but your able to limp out of the bush. Failed or blown air ride bag you'd be in a world of hurt with the suspension dropped especially at one corner collasped or failed having three able to be manually pumped up for ground clearance. Talk about your three wheeled ox cart if that happened in the bush.......~~=o&o>.......
 

avslash

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Even better, build like the actual GOE kit. Add extra air line to each corner and run a loop of the extra through to somewhere easily accesible. Mine are stubbed out above the trailer hitch in rear, and tucked just behind my grille in front. Put the union connector in those spots that are easy to access. If you have trouble, decouple the union and insert your scrader valve pigtail and inflate.

Much easier to do standing comfortably rather than crawling around in the muck on the side of a trail.
 

djkaosone

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Even better, build like the actual GOE kit. Add extra air line to each corner and run a loop of the extra through to somewhere easily accesible. Mine are stubbed out above the trailer hitch in rear, and tucked just behind my grille in front. Put the union connector in those spots that are easy to access. If you have trouble, decouple the union and insert your scrader valve pigtail and inflate.

Much easier to do standing comfortably rather than crawling around in the muck on the side of a trail.
Yup, something like this.

20201021_085200.jpg
20201021_145108.jpg
20201021_145522.jpg
 

CRYA

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Ooh I like that. More of a permanent fail safe I see. Thanks for the tips. Definitely sounds easy enough to assemble. I may go ahead and have a spare compressor on-hand as well, just in case.
 

djkaosone

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Curious how this fitting works. Is it essentially an always open 3-way connector? I guess that would work, so long as the problem isn't a major leak somewhere up the green tube.
It works assuming your valve block is doing its job, specifically cutting power to your compressor fuse F26 and the entire suspension ecu F3. I had butterfly valves between the valve block and tee fitting, but wasn't rated high enough to work.

The McMaster link had some 6mm end caps that'll be perfect to cap off the tee going to the valve block, which makes the schrader valve directly feeding the struts.
 

ryanjl

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It works assuming your valve block is doing its job, specifically cutting power to your compressor fuse F26 and the entire suspension ecu F3. I had butterfly valves between the valve block and tee fitting, but wasn't rated high enough to work.

The McMaster link had some 6mm end caps that'll be perfect to cap off the tee going to the valve block, which makes the schrader valve directly feeding the struts.

If there were a valve in that 3 way connector, whereby it wouldn't let any air up the green line (thereby eliminating the potential for major leaks in the green line or at the valve blocks), then I would think it would affect a normally-operating suspension's ability to lower the pressure in an air spring, as I'm fairly certain the air tube is also where the air strut exhausts air pressure.

Am I right in thinking that?
 

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