The Great Engine Oil Debate

[jlglr4]

@timc930 - Thanks for that tip. I knew about FCP’s warranty, but it didn’t even occur to me that it extends to oil. Of course, shipping oil from CA back to the east coast is probably not cheap.

 

[ktm525]

It supposedly does, if I recall correctly. Buried in that big oil thread I linked above I think there is some discussion of it.

Interesting I had never seen the Land Rover specific specs that Ravenol mentioned. The only specs listed in the 2010 manual were:

 

[TrinidadLR4]

this is the first time i've seen 5w-30 specced for an LR4/Disco4. This makes me think that v6 is a completely different engine from the SC v6 that we later got.

 

[ktm525]

Perhaps a continuation of the old Ford 4.0L V6 they were using in the LR3? Low end engine option for a stripped out Discovery 4 in some markets?

 

[Keanan]

Check Amazon for

Castrol 1598EF Edge Extended Performance 5W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quart​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGQM1WO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It meets the specs and works well.

 

[Eric LeBlanc]

OK!

AB does not have the 5w20 Castrol Professional (OE) in stock and they are saying it could be 3 months or more.
(Yes, apparently it is available on ebay, but at $80/qt that's not happening.)

SO....

Best Castrol alternative at this time?
Edge
Edge Extended Performance
Edge Euro Car

Keeping in mind that yes, we have all read the posts and likely commented on this before, and that I am not as liberal in my oil substitutions as some...


AND. My local dealership tells me that the specification for the 2013 has changed and they now sell and use 0-20 Castrol Edge Professional (OE) in the V8 - comments?

They switched to 0-20 to overcome a cold weather starting issue. I encountered it once in Breckenridge on a below zero morning. It started and threw a code and said reduced power. I switched and haven’t looked back.

 

[ktm525]

They switched to 0-20 to overcome a cold weather starting issue. I encountered it once in Breckenridge on a below zero morning. It started and threw a code and said reduced power. I switched and haven’t looked back.

I live 1000 miles north of Colorado and can tell you 5w-30 works just fine down into the -30s. The march towards thinner oils is dues to fuel economy. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

[John Robison]

We use a lot of Motul at Robison Service. As for the commenter who notes the JLR spec will also meet ACEA A5/B5, that is true one way. In other words, the JLR rated oil can be used in any car that needs ACEA A5/B5, but you cannot assume another non JLR ACEA A5/B5 will br suitable in the JLR V8.

While many people believe/hope that any synthetic will be OK if changed every 7500 miles, why take the chance? The problem in these engines is that the oil is not strong enough to hold off metal on metal contact that produces wear. Do you think all that wear is happening at the 10k mile mark?

We have seen enough damaged engines to stick with the JLR rated oil AND ALSO strongly suggest a 7500 mile change interval.

 

[ktm525]

Please explain the concept of "strong oil" and what damage exactly are you seeing?

 

[mm3846]

We use a lot of Motul at Robison Service. As for the commenter who notes the JLR spec will also meet ACEA A5/B5, that is true one way. In other words, the JLR rated oil can be used in any car that needs ACEA A5/B5, but you cannot assume another non JLR ACEA A5/B5 will br suitable in the JLR V8.

While many people believe/hope that any synthetic will be OK if changed every 7500 miles, why take the chance? The problem in these engines is that the oil is not strong enough to hold off metal on metal contact that produces wear. Do you think all that wear is happening at the 10k mile mark?

We have seen enough damaged engines to stick with the JLR rated oil AND ALSO strongly suggest a 7500 mile change interval.

I’m pretty inclined to listen to this guy. I’m almost ready to do an oil change again and will be sending back this sample to compare it to the JLR Castrol.