The Quest for A Durable Front Crossover Pipe

Discussion in 'LR4' started by avslash, Aug 28, 2019.

  1. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    I bet there are several very smart computer tech people on this forum alone that can design and build a system that would make the computer happy. Higher quality designed after market replacement parts picking up where the manufacture had failed. Why replace the same expensive part several times over from the vehicle's manufacture who's only looking at their profits controlled by their greedy bean counters? A bad design with upgraded replacement parts goes a lot farther with the public's trust tan sticking them with replacement bills of inferior parts again. This leaves a bad taste in future buyers of any vehicle manufactures brand. Why buy an expensive vehicle with known not corrected as well expensive to maintain repairs?

    The expression, a fool with his money are soon parted seems to be LR's thinking JMO.
    I must ask, how did the fool get the money in the first place?.....~~=o&o>......
     
  2. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    Does anybody speak "engineer"?

    Is there a technical measurement for the 4 main ports on the factory crossover pipe?

    If the flanges I linked to above are a fit for the 5.0 block, then one could run stainless braid from each block port to an appropriately sized AN Y-Fitting. Then, another short piece of stainless braid to an AN to "heater hose" y adapter.

    All of these parts look to be readily available from various hot-rodding supply houses if we can determine the correct sizing.

    At a minimum, if that configuration can be made to work, it would eliminate the common problem of the factory crossover pipe block side ends deteriorating and the failures of the factory part at the plasti-welded seam. Additionally, it would allow the servicing of all but the block flanges without having to remove the intake manifold.

    So, we need the following:
    Measurements on the block ports.
    Measurements on the "heater hose" ends of the crossover pipe.
    Some way to determine we would be installing hose with sufficient diameter to approximate the flow volume of the factory part.

    Anybody got a block, crossover pipe and pair of calipers handy?

    If we can figure out the sizing, I would guinea pig it on mine.
     
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  3. Tapps33

    Tapps33 Member

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    Avslash, if you can wait a month or two I can get that for you. I’m about to tear the engine apart to do the timing gear “maintenance.” While in there I was gonna replace all the coolant parts too....just didn’t want...or shall I say I won’t be replacing with stock. (As long as it works and doesn’t cause ECU code puke lol!)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  4. Michael Puig

    Michael Puig Member

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    We need to also take into account the mounting for the e-Pump - brackets and mounts need to be sized and fabricated. Will there be room?

    It might be useful to get the LR pump and run by the Ford parts counter and compare,,,
     
  5. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Just to clarify... the electric water pump conversion is a totally separate discussion, and not related to the crossover pipe failures. Correct?

    avslash, I like your idea of AN braided hose/fittings. But how would it attach to the fittings which don't appear to be a flange connection with retaining bolt?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  6. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    You help me with that.

    I don't have my truck available to take a look at right now, but I do have a sale crossover pipe in my possession to examine.

    Looking at you first picture, the larger port on the left looks to be a dead fitting on the pipe I have in my hand. The fitting is there, but it is not drilled through into the flow channel of the pipe. Is yours the same? Is anything hooked to this when the pipe is installed, or is it a vestigial appendage from some other application?

    The other port on the right looks to be a bleeder fitting. Is anything hooked to this port when the pipe is installed? if it is simply another bleed point, I can work around that by using a vacuum bleeder when refilling coolant.

    I would go out and take a look, but as I said I don't have my truck right now. Wont get it back in my possession until Friday
     
  7. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Ah, if the 2 ports are not normally used, that would help. I don't have a loose pipe to examine and I'm not sure how visible this stuff is when popping the hood. If we just need to connect the 2 bottom ports (with O-rings) together with what I assume is the upper radiator hose pass-through, this would be slightly easier.

    I think.

    o_O
     
  8. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    That would be great. No urgency on my end.

    Would be an excellent time to test this theory if the measurements make it seem doable. The other issue I wonder about is clearance for the braided hose ends under the intake manifold.
     
  9. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

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    Electric water pump is separate issue, but I am interested now that it has been brought up.
     
  10. BeemerNut

    BeemerNut Full Access Member

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    If i'm understanding that crossover correctly, the two stubs with "O" rings attached mounted into the engine they are connected together fluid wise feeding the crossover pipe?

    Why not (?), machine out two short nipples with "O" ring grooves inserted into an oblong thick piece of aluminum stock, cross drilled connected then plugged hole, add an aluminum 90 degree fitting shortened down with a hose barb aimed to the best direction on the engine plus add aluminum bolt down wings. Tig the parts together and install.
    Figure out what's required in fittings at the opposite end of the crossover connecting hoses together again another group of aluminum parts assembled then Tig welded together. One high temp and pressure rated and braided hose connecting the two ends together. I'd damn well would of fabricated and Tig welded a solution if I owned one of these "high tech" engines. A 100% reliable cure only weak point would be the hose which should be accessible if the end fittings were properly aimed and mocked up before welding together.

    I know I may come off as a wise ass, don't blame me I own the equipment to fabricate things.
    Lathe, Bridgeport mill, 350 Miller Synchrowave (1993 loaded), 251 Millermatic MIg, Hypertherm Plasma, metal cutting band saws my personal home toys.
    Spent a few years in a machine shop, A&P mechanic plus an electrician. This about summs it up as requirements to maintain a Land Rover without dealerships.

    Making special spanner or custom tools has been keeping my LR up and running 20 years and counting.

    Wild ideas come to mind like milling out a 1 1/2" thick intake spacer installed between the ram tube base and intake manifold on the 4.6 engine shifting the max torque rpm's from 3,100 to 2,715 rpm's, (per NASCAR engine computer results). Best improvement yet having 5 spd. Milled out 1/4" aluminum ring raising the plenum cover higher away from the ram tube bell ends, added clearance to the end cylinder ram tubes under the plenum cover for a cleaner straighter air flow shot. Factory bells only had 0.470" measured factory clearance from cover really sucked with airflow. Added a Pre-Oiler with relays and timer with modified sandwich adapter plus other items improving the engine's ability to live a longer life.

    Accused of PLAGIARISM on one of these Land Rover forums (which one years ago?) after posting the above machined items plus the injector cleaning and testing equipment I designed and built to flush, check spray pattern as well make up a set of eight injectors flowing within 3/4% (0.0075) each other. Simulated 250 rpm's to 8,200, 5% to 95% duty cycles, 5 minute timed test events. I'll shut up and go back to was called out "antique push rod LR engines".......~~=o&o>......
     

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