Update for the Owners of this Beautiful Truck!

[rostov]

The $700 was for the 30K inspection which included the oil change. They might as well charged $800 as they come up with crazy figures out the sky it seems to me.

What else was done per that 30K "inspection"? - mos likely nothing.

The full break jobs were just pads. Funny you said that because the very first time i had them checked (@11k) i was told that my rotors needed to be replaced which i flat out refused to do and look now...19K later and they are still just fine! Just proves they just try to get you to agree to whatever makes them money at times!!

That is exactly how they make money. That type of job they call groovy job, and it is getting worse at the high end (expensive) cars dealers since they will unlikely get a doubt from this type of clientele… It is very simple job, especially in the shop on the lift. They spend half an hour replacing those parts all the way around, but you pay per the labor book value which is a few hours… (I don’t see problem there, but only if it is really necessary…)

When I am being toled that something has to be replaced, I always ask a simple question – Why? And in many cases I just don’t get the reasonable answer.

Rotors replacement – could not be simpler – “are those warped? No? - could you please give me the measurement?” – There is a minimum thickness that is stated on the rotor, reaching which it has to be replaces. Did they measure it?? 99.999% not…

 

[94speedster]

And per that point Rostov, I was able to secure years ago measurements for the LR3 rotors:

Front Disc LR3 Rotor Vented
Diameter, Height, Thickness, Min-Thickness
mm = 317, 62.2, 30, 27
Rear Disc LR3 Rotor Vented
Diameter, Height, Thickness, Min-Thickness
mm = 325, 59.6, 20, 17

These allows for a 3mm reduction in each rotor..

Does anyone have the specs for LR4 rotors, or are they the same?

Thanks,
-Blake

 

[rostov]

And per that point Rostov, I was able to secure years ago measurements for the LR3 rotors:

Front Disc LR3 Rotor Vented
Diameter, Height, Thickness, Min-Thickness
mm = 317, 62.2, 30, 27
Rear Disc LR3 Rotor Vented
Diameter, Height, Thickness, Min-Thickness
mm = 325, 59.6, 20, 17

These allows for a 3mm reduction in each rotor..

Does anyone have the specs for LR4 rotors, or are they the same?

Thanks,
-Blake

Yes, I saw your post after I submitted mime.
This info should be shared here in a sticky note so people could save money and would not feel fxxked every time they come out of service.

You can find this info on the rotor itself.

 

[psc]

Does the LR4 lower the suspension at high speed?

Yes - From the manual Discovery 4

High speed height
If the vehicle exceeds 160 km/h (100 mph) for
longer than five seconds, the suspension ride
height lowers by 20 mm (0.75 in). This action
is automatic and cannot be over-ridden
manually. Ride height will return to normal
when vehicle speed remains below 130 km/h
(80 mph) for at least 30 seconds.

 

[rostov]

Yes - From the manual Discovery 4

High speed height
If the vehicle exceeds 160 km/h (100 mph) for
longer than five seconds, the suspension ride
height lowers by 20 mm (0.75 in). This action
is automatic and cannot be over-ridden
manually. Ride height will return to normal
when vehicle speed remains below 130 km/h
(80 mph) for at least 30 seconds.

Cool! Where should I test it now? ... Should i?

 

[lexman34]

disregard..........

 

[lexman34]

And per that point Rostov, I was able to secure years ago measurements for the LR3 rotors:

Front Disc LR3 Rotor Vented
Diameter, Height, Thickness, Min-Thickness
mm = 317, 62.2, 30, 27
Rear Disc LR3 Rotor Vented
Diameter, Height, Thickness, Min-Thickness
mm = 325, 59.6, 20, 17

These allows for a 3mm reduction in each rotor..

Does anyone have the specs for LR4 rotors, or are they the same?

Thanks,
-Blake

Thank you so much for letting me know i am not crazy for looking at them like THEY are crazy when tell me something "extra" is needed. I am going to use this formula for the rest of my life in these dealerships for sure!

 

[lexman34]

What else was done per that 30K "inspection"? - mos likely nothing.


That is exactly how they make money. That type of job they call groovy job, and it is getting worse at the high end (expensive) cars dealers since they will unlikely get a doubt from this type of clientele… It is very simple job, especially in the shop on the lift. They spend half an hour replacing those parts all the way around, but you pay per the labor book value which is a few hours… (I don’t see problem there, but only if it is really necessary…)

When I am being toled that something has to be replaced, I always ask a simple question – Why? And in many cases I just don’t get the reasonable answer.

Rotors replacement – could not be simpler – “are those warped? No? - could you please give me the measurement?” – There is a minimum thickness that is stated on the rotor, reaching which it has to be replaces. Did they measure it?? 99.999% not…

Thank you so much for letting me know i am not crazy for looking at them like THEY are crazy when tell me something "extra" is needed. I am going to use this formula for the rest of my life in these dealerships for sure!

 

[lexman34]

Interesting thread...

First off, glad to hear that your LR4 survived two accidents with minimal damage! These cars truly are tanks!

We now have 24K on our LR4 which we purchased 9 months ago. I have my wife write down the amount of gas purchased and current mileage at the pump every time she fills up. The trip computer says we average 16.5mpg, but the calculation shows 11.9mpg. In short, the trip computer is dead wrong...

Regarding brakes, our pads are getting low in the front, but still have life. I'd wager that the 32-37k number is accurate. When it is finally time to replace the break pads, I will create a DIY on this forum and source the parts from Britich Atlantic or the dealer. About 10 years ago, dealers decided to play the game of "recommending" that customers replace both rotors and pads once the pads wear down. This is complete hogwash, and an opportunity for the dealer to make more margin on parts (rotors) and charge for the extra labor time (rotors tend to take longer to replace than pads on many cars). The visual test to see if your rotors need replacement is to look at the front face of the rotor and see how deep it recesses beneath the outside edge. You can always double-check with a micrometer, but most rotors can lose 2-3mm of thickness before needing replacement. On our LR3, we reached 90k in miles and NEVER replaced any of the rotors. They were getting close at 90k, but still had bite. Pad & rotor replacement is a DIY job (quite easily actually) and will save you a lot of money...

There is concern on this thread about driving Rovers at 135mph. The engine in our LR4 is a 5.0 liter performance engine taken from the Jaguar XF. It is a beast! (watch the Top Gear episode on the XF to see its capabilities). Additionally, the LR4 was designed to handle such speeds and has a very complex suspension system for both off-road prowess,and on-road handling. Will it win an autocross? Probably not - but it will make an awesome high-speed autobahn crusier! I travel to Europe and the Middel East, and have been "buzzed" on the autobahn by many Rovers above 120mph. And in Dubai, it seems that everyone owns a Range Rover/RR Sport/Disco IV/etc. - and they drive them like the stole them! Our trucks can handle those excessive speeds quite comfortably...

Awesome car. I plan to keep buying Rovers for a very long time...

-B

Thanks for the compliments on the thread. I think the concern was more about safety because if you own this truck, you would know that anything that it is listed it can do...it CAN DO. Going 135 MPH in it really felt more like 90 as the center of gravity due to the weight really gave me a feeling of steadiness which was unexpected. Again i repeat, i did this in an abandoned air-strip. I would never try this on a highway with other drivers on the road.

I am so glad you posted your data on the mileage. I am not getting anything near what is being posted on a regular basis. The only time i see MPG over 14 is when i am doing a straight run on the highway for a min of 100 miles on cruise control at 65MPH.

Thanks on the advice of the brakes. I just wish they just lasted longer.

 

[horacioad]

I understand and respect your statement sir. I have a very simple answer for you. I do it because I can.

Bless your heart! But how much does it cost on gas to get our beloved bumble bee of an aerodynamic vehicle up to that speed?