255/55-19 ATTURO TRAIL BLADE MT TYRES

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jwest

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....so tell us how you really feel lol I agree when you say "you don't need as much traction as you think" these vehicles are very capable stock from the factory... however, is it better to have and not need, then need and not have? tire tread makes a huge difference on any surface you drive on. I don't think any of the tires talked about on this thread are "noisy as hell" they are just louder than a highway tread tire. "Beating the **** out of suspension parts because of 19" rims" i'll have to put you in touch with the engineers who spent thousands of hours designing and testing every part on these cars to withstand all sorts of terranes and situations, clearly you know more than them! My LR4 is my daily driver, 80% on pavement, as are most. it would be great if I could throw thousands at it on new rims and beefy off road tires, then be able to switch back to nice and quite highway tires for the drive home BUT not every off road trip is planned. I know many times i've been driving and decided to take a ******, rutted out back road when my GPS had me staying on the pavement, the idea behind these cars is that they are universal. you don't need to stop and disconnect sway bar links or throw different tires on it to have a good time! select mud/ruts and have at it. So why not sacrifice a little noise for a tire that does the same thing. as for fender modification.... thats something I'd never do but everyone has there own opinion. ATTURO tires seem like a cheaper alternative to most options out there, cheaper DOES NOT mean junk! I know the reason i'm part of this site is to find cheaper solutions to any issue my land rover throws at me. JWEST you are right, these are expensive cars....so what's wrong with saving a few bucks here and there?

1-I've never heard of that tire but also true it could be just fine. However, who wins all the baja races....? I run Nokian for winter, BFG for dirt and Michelin for highway which is probably the weakest one of all and that's saying something IMO. I've heard the MS2 will crack the rubber before I use up the tire so we shall see...
BFG simply are THE best tire you could put on a heavy ass lr3/4/rrs o I'd rather pay a few $ for a tire that will more likely last longer but also fail less often and perform better at 20 psi with zero worries.

2-while the suspension may have been engineered to take abuse, why beat it (and yourself or passengers or gear) to death with high psi 19" tires when you can roll so much better with a low psi on an 18" tire that is also larger profile/sidewall.

3-tread and traction. You know what would be an interesting head to head, your best 19" in rocks, mud, steep, soft, and full articulation against a truly not off road tire like the Michelin MS2 but on my lr3 with it in 32" aired down to 22 psi where I will have more articulation simply due to the tire squish and also more ground contact if desired. Mine will excel where all 4 tires still work when a 19" equipped lr will be lifting tires off the ground. I'll have the magic carpet ride regardless of the traction results though ;)

In this head to head, if I used a BFG AT KO2 and you had a 19" mud, mine would run circles around you with a E load range tire a lowest psi just wrapping over all the weird stuff that could cut a 19" sidewall.

4- If you're 80% pavement, like most of us are, and it's probably honestly more like 95% actual mileage if you drive it for much else, then the BFG AT KO2 is the ideal single year round tire. They aren't even very noisy IMO. My km2 are however very noisy by comparison. Check out my photos of where I took the highway michelins though.... i'll repost a couple here. I also took them to test on wet PNW trail outside Index WA. It was black rated. Hardest aspect of that was approach/departure angles and big ass rocks.

5- I joined the site long ago to find BETTER solutions, not cheaper ones ... ;) No offense, but I think better is more important than cheaper. Too often 'cheap' actually becomes not a value when you find it is not as good as a few bucks more expensive. I wouldn't want to be in Colorado 6 hrs by foot from the nearest highway on anything besides BFG or the other top makes.
 

Krill

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very true, excuse the attitude of my previous post lol one of those days yesterday
ive had very good luck with the good year wrangler duratrac, you and avslash are right, for serious off road the first limiting factor is tire size. I guess the big question to ask yourself before choosing tires/different rim size is what are you actually going to use them for. I think I would have a totally different opinion on keeping stock rim size if I lived near trails in the mountains, sadly its a 14 hour drive to NC Uwharri trails. in Florida we pretty much just have mud and sand...nothing that really requires 18" and big sidewalls(sometimes in the sand it would be nice though)
 

Fozzy325

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*** is "Atturo" ? I will never understand people who spend $$$$ on a vehicle but then skimp pennies on something as important as a tire when it's so simple to choose high quality providing nearly zero worries.

A 19" so called 'MT' is a complete joke on the buyer, almost as pointless as a 20" wheel with 31" tire.

Just put a decent highway all-arounder on the 19's, and have an 18" set for the rough trips. I've actually used my Michelin MS2 on "moderate ot hard" rated trails aired down in some wet and they were way better than I expected. They're E load though too of course but the point is that all this crap about 19" MT and noisy as hell and terrible highway traction is for no good reason.

Most people don't need as much tread traction as they think they do but the tire carcass is what's more important and sidewall. Snow tires or commuter tires are for 19", everything else should be the 18" and at least 265/65-18.

There's no comparison on a 19" of any type made to running a 32" E load range proper tire at 20-24 psi and +20mm above normal ride height. 19" will beat the **** out of your suspension parts as well because you can't use very low psi without risking a bad day.

Also, FYI, I got over 75,000 miles on a set of BFG KO1 before selling them. Tell me about saving a few bucks....? There's a reason they cost so much in certain sizes. 276/65-18 is damn near perfect if you're willing to do the modifications to the fender liner/wheel housing and frame horns.

Good luck.
Thank you for your very informative post.
18” will not fit unless I do one of the following.
Buy comp wheels for 2.2k including shipping.
Pay another 2k for 5 tyres including fitting
Pay 700 for the IIDtool.

So for 5k I can get out and do what I want to do this year. Or get this, I can buy some tyres for 1400 fitted re aligned with Johnson rods and balanced while I save up to buy the wheels, tyres and IIDtool.
I’m having to do this old school. Save money, fit what I can within budget and find alternatives for the Rolls Royce solutions.

I didn’t spend $$$ on my vehicle. I traded in several vehicles I wasn’t using for it.
I have limited funds and need some thing better than the stock 4season & winter tyres I got in the trade.
I have started to buy spare parts for the vehicle based on the top issues. I’m planning.

LR4 2016 can not fit 18” wheels unless I get 30mm spacers then I can only go to a 265/65R18 before I need to do modifications to the vehicle at access height. I need access height due to clearance at work and my apartment.

It’s obvious that you are someone with strong opinions.
I appreciate your opinion for what it’s worth in my situation.

Oh the other things I can do.
Buy 18 wheels, grind them down and the callipers. However get a small stone between the wheel and calliper and I’m screwed

Next
Replace from the ball joint the breaking system from a LR3 that fits stock 18 wheels.

Difference is 13.8 brake rotor, calliper and mount. for LR3 and a 14.2 brake rotor and calliper with mount for LR4

As my normal travel speed doesn’t exceed 110 for fuel economy I don’t see an issue but I would need to get someone who is good at maths to work the physics out.


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ryanjl

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If you're trying to save money, why the hell are you fitting Johnson Rods with stock sized tires?
 

Fozzy325

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If you're trying to save money, why the hell are you fitting Johnson Rods with stock sized tires?
For when I go 4x4 rock climbing and wading through 3 foot snow to get the extra height and they came with the vehicle as part of the deal.

Like this weekend, last weekend, and for almost every weekend since November.

Yes I did destroy 1 tyre so far which cost 300 to replace but I think the BFG wouldn’t have survived it either.
Slid down an embankment into jagged rock which punctured and sliced my front tyre at a 45 degree to the wheel.
Ice on 20% degree unmanaged winter road. DHC tried to keep it under 2kmh but nope.



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Fozzy325

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So the rods were used this weekend through snow way deeper than this. The traxx worked well when it got too deep.

IMG_3303.jpg
IMG_3304.jpg
IMG_3305.jpg


However I would have loved to have more traction when I aired down to 20psi


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jwest

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So the rods were used this weekend through snow way deeper than this.

Total BS. and I don't mean you are BS or what you did, just that the idea of needing rods is BS.

The rods only emptied yur pocket. They did nothing to help the ground clearance. You can get same height without them.

To other people, spend the $ on iidtool, not dumb rods for height.

Rods are not required for even a 32" tire. Rods do not make a 32" fit without the modifications. 32" tires create more actual ground clearance than rods can....

So, take rods $ and put into either taller tires, iidtool, or both...

airing down in snow on a heavy lr3 is pretty much pointless. You need to bite in, not make a useless attempt to float. Skinny tire with winter tread is best plan for snow under a 6000 lb lr3/4
 
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jwest

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Thank you for your very informative post.
18” will not fit unless I do one of the following.
Buy comp wheels for 2.2k including shipping.
Pay another 2k for 5 tyres including fitting
Pay 700 for the IIDtool.

So for 5k I can get out and do what I want to do this year. Or get this, I can buy some tyres for 1400 fitted re aligned with Johnson rods and balanced while I save up to buy the wheels, tyres and IIDtool.
I’m having to do this old school. Save money, fit what I can within budget and find alternatives for the Rolls Royce solutions.

I didn’t spend $$$ on my vehicle. I traded in several vehicles I wasn’t using for it.
I have limited funds and need some thing better than the stock 4season & winter tyres I got in the trade.
I have started to buy spare parts for the vehicle based on the top issues. I’m planning.

LR4 2016 can not fit 18” wheels unless I get 30mm spacers then I can only go to a 265/65R18 before I need to do modifications to the vehicle at access height. I need access height due to clearance at work and my apartment.

It’s obvious that you are someone with strong opinions.
I appreciate your opinion for what it’s worth in my situation.

Oh the other things I can do.
Buy 18 wheels, grind them down and the callipers. However get a small stone between the wheel and calliper and I’m screwed

Next
Replace from the ball joint the breaking system from a LR3 that fits stock 18 wheels.

Difference is 13.8 brake rotor, calliper and mount. for LR3 and a 14.2 brake rotor and calliper with mount for LR4

As my normal travel speed doesn’t exceed 110 for fuel economy I don’t see an issue but I would need to get someone who is good at maths to work the physics out.


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ok, so that $1400, add to it the cost of alignment and rods, now you have about 1700? Spacers and cheap lr3 wheels and you're off. You don't need iidtool unless you plan to screw w stuff. If you get an 18", you can fit a little bigger tire like 31.5. Generally 18's are cheaper tires than 19's but not always.

The BFG would very likely have survived whatever you think was bad. What's bad is rolling around on rock crawling with 19 or 20" wheels that have no sidewall left.

Also, 25mm spacers are available, they might work. I recall that I had to grind calipers for the 17" even with spacers.

I see lr3 18's on ebay all the time for $150.

If you were going to do the whole brake parts thing, I'd go all the way and put on 17" parts. The EBC set I have works fantastic on my 7500 lb lr3.

If I had an lr4, I'd first probably just spring for 18' that fit the brakes. It's just so much simpler. If I couldn't afford that yet, I wouldn't spend a penny on any interim junk like rods or 19" tires that I don't want to roll on once I move to 18's. I'd want the 19" set to be usable for something like winter highway trips.

Even with a stock tire and lr4, you can still clear about 12" under the rear differential I think but maybe not quite. The thing with snow is there will ALWAYS be a bit deeper snow somewhere so the ground clearance game there is also rather pointless. Snow will win every time.

Consider a rigid traction device that can also perform as a bridge like the waffleboards or other true ladders. Mine also function as a standing platform on the roof with no rack at all. Then they can also become under tire blocking for camping leveling.
 

Fozzy325

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Total BS. The rods only emptied yur pocket. They did nothing to help the ground clearance. You can get same height without them.

To other people, spend the $ on iidtool, not dumb rods for height.

Rods are not required for even a 32" tire. Rods do not make a 32" fit without the modifications. 32" tires create more actual ground clearance than rods can....

So, take rods $ and put into either taller tires, iidtool, or both...

airing down in snow on a heavy lr3 is pretty much pointless. You need to bite in, not make a useless attempt to float. Skinny tire with winter tread is best plan for snow under a 6000 lb lr3/4
Total BS? That’s rude and inaccurate. Did you read my post where I said it came with the vehicle when I traded in.
Oh wait no. You need to be narcissistic.
So please inform the world what it costs to buy 5 composite wheels x 5 plus x 5 KO2 tyres, an IIDtool.
33inch wheels equates to 325/60r18 or 295/65r18
To do this you will now need to hack into the body work.

Omg you are out their with hummer drivers.

So for me to go out last weekend you are suggesting that I am to go into debt

You are a fool my friend


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