Engine revs high upon start up

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My 2016 LR4 HSE revs high ( Not above 2000rpm) when starting, then a few secs (4-7) later drops to 800. I asked the head tech at my dealer, he said its normal. He says the engine revs high at first to get all systems up and running and lubricated, then drops down to normal idle. He cautioned me to ALWAYS allow the engine to drop to normal idle BEFORE driving off. Hope this helps. Please don't reply and say derog about my Tech as the company he works for owns several LR/RR/Jag dealerships and he knows what he is doing.
 
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My 2016 LR4 HSE revs high ( Not above 2000rpm) when starting, then a few secs (4-7) later drops to 800. I asked the head tech at my dealer, he said its normal. He says the engine revs high at first to get all systems up and running and lubricated, then drops down to normal idle. He cautioned me to ALWAYS allow the engine to drop to normal idle BEFORE driving off. Hope this helps. Please don't reply and say derog about my Tech as the company he works for owns several LR/RR/Jag dealerships and he knows what he is doing.
 

Mdurwin

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My (new to me) 2012 LR4 LUX revs past 2K rpm on the first start of the day. Foot is off the gas pedal. It settles down to around 800 RPM within 15 seconds. It still revs high when starting after it is warmed up, just not as high or for as long. The vehicle has 133K miles, good maintenance including timing chain guides and tensioners replaced. It runs smoothly and their are no other known issues. Does anyone else experience this?
This is caused by 2 things:
Your LR announcing to the world that it’s awake and ready to much on little smart cars.
Burning through extra gas in case your fuel bill has been too low lately.
 

ktm525

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My 2016 LR4 HSE revs high ( Not above 2000rpm) when starting, then a few secs (4-7) later drops to 800. I asked the head tech at my dealer, he said its normal. He says the engine revs high at first to get all systems up and running and lubricated, then drops down to normal idle. He cautioned me to ALWAYS allow the engine to drop to normal idle BEFORE driving off. Hope this helps. Please don't reply and say derog about my Tech as the company he works for owns several LR/RR/Jag dealerships and he knows what he is doing.

Lubricated? lol. It is to warm up the catalysts.
 

scott schmerge

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Hey all,

getting p0171 and p0174. Did the pcv valves. No change. Next step to smoke test unless anyone has any other ideas...seems like a vacuum leak that came on suddenly. Really odd
 

BeemerNut

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Normal. Warming up the catalytics.

Not reading all the replies, that's the reason what ktm525 has stated. Great to rev a cold engine before oil pressure is established, before oil has made it to the to the rod oil slots designed to sling oil out of the rod bleeders for lubricating the cylinder bores. Dry starts anyone? This to fire off the cats ASAP at the cost of the engine's longer life. Cold start wear far exceeds normal driving wear. Had the same problem on the 95 D1 that flashed up to 3,100 rpm with cold starts. If them 5.0's have a IACV bypass (not a clue or interest at my end) hose which bypasses air for that high rpm cold start idle I suggest machining a brass slug with a variable flow resistance disc with holes added to a revolver looking cylinder pressed into the bypass hose. Adjusted to the cold start rpm's that make you happy. Reduced cold start idle set at 925 rpm's (my setting) plus the engine is also Pre-Oiled for 12 seconds at 38 psi before the crankshaft has ever rotated. Another advantage those 12 seconds of pressurized oil the bleeding and dripping out of the rod journals and crank cheeks ending up being slung off the crank lubricating the dry cylinder bores after the last hot engine shut down overnight drain. You think the EPA has your interest in your engine's extra long life life? If so your foolish. Your call......~~=o&o>......
 

avslash

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Not reading all the replies, that's the reason what ktm525 has stated. Great to rev a cold engine before oil pressure is established, before oil has made it to the to the rod oil slots designed to sling oil out of the rod bleeders for lubricating the cylinder bores. Dry starts anyone? This to fire off the cats ASAP at the cost of the engine's longer life. Cold start wear far exceeds normal driving wear. Had the same problem on the 95 D1 that flashed up to 3,100 rpm with cold starts. If them 5.0's have a IACV bypass (not a clue or interest at my end) hose which bypasses air for that high rpm cold start idle I suggest machining a brass slug with a variable flow resistance disc with holes added to a revolver looking cylinder pressed into the bypass hose. Adjusted to the cold start rpm's that make you happy. Reduced cold start idle set at 925 rpm's (my setting) plus the engine is also Pre-Oiled for 12 seconds at 38 psi before the crankshaft has ever rotated. Another advantage those 12 seconds of pressurized oil the bleeding and dripping out of the rod journals and crank cheeks ending up being slung off the crank lubricating the dry cylinder bores after the last hot engine shut down overnight drain. You think the EPA has your interest in your engine's extra long life life? If so your foolish. Your call......~~=o&o>......

I really need to get with you on scheduling for my Rover to spend a week with you....Just let me know what works on your end. You offer a loaner car don't you? :)
 

scott schmerge

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Hey all,

getting p0171 and p0174. Did the pcv valves. No change. Next step to smoke test unless anyone has any other ideas...seems like a vacuum leak that came on suddenly. Really odd
Found my issue...cracked the damn valve cover tab on the pcv valve. $1400 mistake. Careful. That plastic is brittle! I needed a new valve cover anyway...rhs was leaking oil...so there’s a silver lining.
 

ryanjl

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Holy cow. I hope you can figure out a source that's cheaper than that.
 

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