Just hit 100k - what preventative maintenance now?

[DaytonaRS7]

I have 75k on my 2013. Never touched the water pump or crossovers. Both look fine and I have pressure tested the cooling system. Easy to test with a vacuum coolant filler.

I have done all the fluids. Rear, middle, front diffs, xfer case, transmission pan and fluid twice, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. Replaced the rear EAS valve block, it was dirty but probably didn't need changed, my EAS calibration was off and causing the rear to droop only after a few days of sitting around. IID tool fixed that. Air filters, oil changes 5-7k miles with mobil 1 EP 5w20.

suspension arms still seem fine, which kinda shocks me given how much trail time I have had bouncing around on rocks and such. But I have no knocks or noises.

My rig basically sits in my garage getting love and random maintenance/mods unless it is on a long camping/touring trip. It doesn't get used as a daily. So it is a bit odd in how it wears. One day it gets thousands of miles in a week, put into mud bogs, winched out, or on a rocky trail destroying tires, or in thick brush getting trail rash. The next it gets polished out and detailed with Zaino, paintless dent repair, parts replaced, chassis cleaned, painted, protected, fluids fresh and sitting still for months. So it doesn't wear like a normal vehicle at all.

i am big fan of the coolant vaccum fill tool, but keep in mind that the coolant sytstem is run under pressure. the vaccum tool could pull the seams of those pipes tighter and hide possible leaks. under pressure any cracks will expand.

you seem to DIY alot of maintenance....you may as well just replace the pipes. for 3 hrs and $100, you could save yourself needing an engine.

 

[cperez]

One day it gets thousands of miles in a week, put into mud bogs, winched out, or on a rocky trail destroying tires, or in thick brush getting trail rash. The next it gets polished out and detailed with Zaino, paintless dent repair, parts replaced, chassis cleaned, painted, protected, fluids fresh and sitting still for months. So it doesn't wear like a normal vehicle at all.

Your LR4 is living its best (perfect) life. Props.

 

[Troy A]

I might do them, I actually have the front crossover part on hand. But honestly I am not as concerned about it as the forums make you think. I have inspected them and they are not discolored or cracked. I have an ultragauge on my dash just to monitor coolant temps.

Even with the ultra-gauge the window of error is so tight - if it ever bursts when you're in the HOV lane doing 75mph with 5 lanes of traffic to your right and no exits available and your Ultra-gauge says "engine temp!" you're about 60 seconds away from a complete engine fail. I consider cross-overs to be 50,000 mile consumables personally.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[LR4inAZ]

I have 75k on my 2013. Never touched the water pump or crossovers. Both look fine and I have pressure tested the cooling system. Easy to test with a vacuum coolant filler.

I have done all the fluids. Rear, middle,

front diffs, xfer case, transmission pan and fluid twice, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. Replaced the rear EAS valve block, it was dirty but probably didn't need changed, my EAS calibration was off and causing the rear to droop only after a few days of sitting around. IID tool fixed that. Air filters, oil changes 5-7k miles with mobil 1 EP 5w20.

suspension arms still seem fine, which kinda shocks me given how much trail time I have had bouncing around on rocks and such. But I have no knocks or noises.

My rig basically sits in my garage getting love and random maintenance/mods unless it is on a long camping/touring trip. It doesn't get used as a daily. So it is a bit odd in how it wears. One day it gets thousands of miles in a week, put into mud bogs, winched out, or on a rocky trail destroying tires, or in thick brush getting trail rash. The next it gets polished out and detailed with Zaino, paintless dent repair, parts replaced, chassis cleaned, painted, protected, fluids fresh and sitting still for months. So it doesn't wear like a normal vehicle at all.

What is the best reference to change differentials, transmission etc

 

[ryanjl]

What is the best reference to change differentials, transmission etc

Reference?

Do you mean how-to?

For the differentials, this thread is pretty good.

https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/75k-mile-service-diff-and-transfer-case-fluid-change.31311/

For the transmission, there's another thread on here somewhere. The short of it is the pan-swap option from a place like Atlantic British is the best.

 

[Philip Mascioli]

I have 75k on my 2013. Never touched the water pump or crossovers. Both look fine and I have pressure tested the cooling system. Easy to test with a vacuum coolant filler.

I have done all the fluids. Rear, middle, front diffs, xfer case, transmission pan and fluid twice, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. Replaced the rear EAS valve block, it was dirty but probably didn't need changed, my EAS calibration was off and causing the rear to droop only after a few days of sitting around. IID tool fixed that. Air filters, oil changes 5-7k miles with mobil 1 EP 5w20.

suspension arms still seem fine, which kinda shocks me given how much trail time I have had bouncing around on rocks and such. But I have no knocks or noises.

My rig basically sits in my garage getting love and random maintenance/mods unless it is on a long camping/touring trip. It doesn't get used as a daily. So it is a bit odd in how it wears. One day it gets thousands of miles in a week, put into mud bogs, winched out, or on a rocky trail destroying tires, or in thick brush getting trail rash. The next it gets polished out and detailed with Zaino, paintless dent repair, parts replaced, chassis cleaned, painted, protected, fluids fresh and sitting still for months. So it doesn't wear like a normal vehicle at all.

My crossover is being replaced as I write this at 67,000 miles. These Swiss Army knives of vehicles are certainly not for the faint of heart. I’m going to give this one more try and if it doesn’t run for two months in a row without incident it goes up for sale. Love it do death but it’s apparently too high maintenance for me.

 

[ktm525]

They are no Toyota Corolla but they are not too bad once sorted. Still $$ to keep in good shape though. Oh and they guzzle premium at an astonishing rate lol.

 

[LR4inAZ]

have an issue with the air suspension - where the front end kneels overnight - Ithink it may be the controller on passenger side - mounted on front bumper...

So I changed the EAS air valve hoping that would solve front end kneeling... it did not fix it.... any advice?

pm me if you want my old one for shipping costs

Genuine EAS Air Suspension Valve Block RVH000095, Front Axle, For Land ...
Item: RVH000095G
Qty: 1 - $179.95

 

[ryanjl]

There's a center valve block right next to the compressor. Could be that if the front valve block isn't the culprit.