LR4 Brakes and Rotors

Discussion in 'LR4' started by Johnnycakes, Nov 18, 2019.

  1. ClevelandLR4

    ClevelandLR4 Member

    Posts:
    14
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2019
    Location:
    Cleveland
    My car policy doesn’t say anywhere that all regular maintenance must be done by certified car mechanic at certain places. It doesn’t even say that I need to follow each and every maintenance recommended by car for them to cover me in an accident. so if I Donnt change flexible break hoses for 15 years and one day while driving it cracks and I loose breaks, I m still covered for that accident. This is where liability part of insurance protects policy holder ( not just car)

    do everything you can and want ,on your cars even when under warranty, do it by manual, save Rec it’s, take photos and videos of your work, save it in car folder .there is legal framework for this in place.
     
  2. cperez

    cperez Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,217
    Likes Received:
    365
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2014
    Location:
    Bethesda, Maryland, USA
    Ah, that explains it right there. Dino vs synth or even the 5-star Castrol truffle oil that I still use.

    But you still have a point about the extra trip I make each time I change my oil...and I drive right by one of my area dealers on the way to the used oil drop off center. But as mentioned, it gets me out of the house.
     
  3. Quijote

    Quijote Full Access Member

    Posts:
    939
    Likes Received:
    136
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2013
    Exactly. LOL

    After the warranty expired, I moved to Mobil1 EP 5W-20. I will be getting my 2nd oil report soon.

    Also, I keep my oil in 5-gallon blue (kerosene) container and I empty it at Advanced Auto parts when it gets full. That happens less then once a year and I have 3 cars and help other people with their oil changes (friends/family), and usually as price for the favor ask them that they do the trip to the store for me.
     
    cperez likes this.
  4. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

    Posts:
    285
    Likes Received:
    95
    Joined:
    May 8, 2017
    Location:
    Idaho
    First, it seems unlikely you need new rotors at only 30kmi. I'd guess you have a warning light indicating worn pads? If so, it may only be front pads... the rears tend to wear slower. You don't always need to replace rotors at every brake job, that is why there are specs for min thickness. If the rotors are above min thickness, and there is no pulsing or vibration when braking, you just need new pads... under $100 each front & rear for OEM (Ferodo) and easy DIY. Don't "turn" the rotors, if the surface is undamaged, just install the pads.

    Assuming you actually need pads + rotors, front AND rear, $2k at the dealer is crazytown as Fuji mentioned. You don't need white-glove installation of butler-delivered parts flown first class from the UK. The Firestone quote makes me nervous as they are likely using generic, off-brand parts straight out of China. I think the indy quote is kinda high, but if you can't do DIY work, I'd go with the indy using OEM parts. (Ask for the boxes as proof, or inspect the parts installed for brand names - I've seen indys charge for OE/OEM parts, then install cheap junk. Some may let you supply the parts, others won't because they lose the profit on the parts. Be careful out there, especially if you haven't dealt with this indy previously.)

    As others mentioned, replacing rotors+pads is straightforward DIY work if you can turn a wrench at all. Few hours total in your garage or driveway. This wasn't mentioned much in the earlier posts, but avoid no-name brands (even from reputable vendors) like the plague. OE (dealer) is fine of course, OEM (Ferodo pads) is also fine, EBC makes good stuff too. Gotta do some homework but the ~$1K savings is worth it.

    Finally - whatever option you pick, go EASY on the brakes for a few hundred miles. New brakes take time to bed in. Avoid panic stops, etc. EBC even puts a note in the box with new pads saying something to that effect.

    o_O
     
    ClevelandLR4 and cperez like this.
  5. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    886
    Likes Received:
    328
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2017
    Location:
    alberta
    I just replaced my rear rotors (Centric) and pads (Brembo). The rotors replaced were the originals (2010 and 175 kms {110k miles}. The fronts can last two sets of pads perhaps more.
     
    gsxr likes this.
  6. Johnnycakes

    Johnnycakes New Member

    Age:
    35
    Posts:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2019
    Location:
    Cleveland
    Thank you everyone for the tips, much appreciated.

    The local Independent shop claims they always do the rotors with the pads. Maybe I can convince them otherwise.
     
  7. avslash

    avslash Full Access Member

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    669
    Likes Received:
    437
    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2011
    Location:
    The Lone Star State
    Harbor Freight sells a perfectly serviceable electronic caliper for 20 bucks or less that can be used to measure rotor thickness versus the minimum that is stamped on the rotors.

    In my area, O'Reilly Auto parts will still turn rotors for something like 10 bucks as well.

    Cheap way to have nice and flat rotors for a new set of pads and still know that you are within spec.
     
    jwest likes this.
  8. Fuji4

    Fuji4 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    164
    Likes Received:
    70
    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2014
    In my 75k miles I get one rotor for two pads in mixed driving.
     
  9. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

    Posts:
    285
    Likes Received:
    95
    Joined:
    May 8, 2017
    Location:
    Idaho
    Replacing rotors+pads together is their business model, not JLR's engineering recommendation. Fattens their wallet while thinning yours, probably unnecessarily. If the shop did not remove at least 1 front and 1 rear wheel, measure the rotor thickness, and inspect pad thickness visually, they do not know what exactly your truck needs.

    There is more labor involved with replacing rotors, so if they give you a quote for pads only, it should be less than half... like, ±$600 max, assuming labor rate over $100/hour. OEM (Ferodo) pads and new sensors should be under $200 total as mentioned earlier, and it's only ~2 hours labor for a pro shop to swap pads.

    BTW - in your original post, you just noted that you "need brakes". Could you elaborate? Message in instrument cluster? Bad noises? Pulsing brake pedal? Etc..
     
    jwest likes this.
  10. Johnnycakes

    Johnnycakes New Member

    Age:
    35
    Posts:
    4
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2019
    Location:
    Cleveland
    I was told by several shops that I'm getting very close. No noises, no issues, no light on yet. The Indy shop advised me to wait until the light goes on.
     

Share This Page