New engine

RAYMOND R

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My wife recently burnt up the engine in a 2013 LR4. I’m looking at replacing it with an engine out of a wrecked 2011. What all can you suggest I do before doing so. Compression check, replace guides and tensioner, …….?
Or, does any one else have a candidate for me?
Thanks!
 

djkaosone

'11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8
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Sorry that you have to get a new engine, but if you're about to put it in I'd suggest doing a little maintenance to save you a bunch of headache down the road.

#1 thing is dry compression test it right out of the donor vehicle, it'll give you a health check and indication of what needs to be done. Anything above 150 psi is good, 190+ is excellent. For comparison, mine ranged from 195-210 psi, '11 LR4 5.0 V8 HSE LUX.

While the motor is out, replace the timing chain guides, tensioner, chains and such. New spark plugs. New valve cover gaskets. Clean or new injectors. Decarbonize intake valves. Replace the cooling components, front/rear crossover pipes, water pump, oil cooler pipe, thermostat, bleeder ***** (with a bmw brass *****).

Debatable, I also recommend flushing out your oem coolant to dexcool. Dexcool is available everywhere, easy to find in remote areas. Most parts in our trucks are FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company) and utilizes Dexcool in their cooling systems. After the engine is installed, just put distilled water in, start it up, blast heater Front and Rear (if you have it) to flush out all the old coolant, repeat the process until absolutely clear, and then introduce 1.5 gallons of concentrated dexcool. It'll eventually mix with the distilled water to get a 50/50 mix. The system with rear heater is about 3 gallons. I've been running it for the past 3-4 years without issues.

I've done all this 2 years ago and I'm really hoping that it'll last me at least another 100k.
 

Tapps33

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Just a lesson I learned recently, @djkaosone is absolutely right! Swap out the timing chains tensioners etc... What you don't want to have happen is find your "new" engine is running the old 6.5mm chain hardware. (This is my recent lesson). Long story even longer, if you have to make the conversion, because no one sells the old stuff anymore, everything is pretty straight forward....EXCEPT the high pressure fuel pump sprocket.

FYI, the issue is the fact that the old 6.5mm chains are twice as wide as the new 8mm chains....which makes no sense, but it does if LR is trying to cut cost by shrinking the chains. (FYI< the 6.5mm "old style" are stronger and quieter...and IMO WAY nicer). Anyway, the accessory drive chain is also wider which calls for new sprockets across the board. Everything is pretty much right there, but the HP fuel pump sprocket as far as I can tell would have to be replaced by swapping the entire fuel pump cam shaft....which is only possible by dropping the oil pan to get to the cam bolts....easy if the engine's out....or more specifically, only possible if the engine's out. Granted, I have only looked at mine for a few seconds as I'm in the middle of a swap rebuild myself. But, not only does it appear to be integrated onto the cam, I can't find anywhere that sells just that particular sprocket to swap. (Anyone else, feel free to chime in if you know better!)

If you've got a couple of months, I can pull mine for ya! It's currently my wife's DD and the platform I'm swapping the SC engine in. The only down side is that it's a 2010 with 165K on it....and yes, it's gonna need new chains....it's kinda why I decided to start this whole SC swap adventure! I figured if I was going to have to put that much time and energy I might as well just swap the whole engine! Oh yeah, I did check and it's 8mm chains. Which is really kinda funny, cause the 2011 SC engine I have has 6.5mm chains. (Insert facepalm here!!!)
 

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