Well crap!

[Fuji4]

If you end up going the dealer or indy route and they pull your supercharger i'd have them also change the isolator bearing and supercharger oil while you have it out as the part is cheap and pulling the charger is 95% of the labor involved in doing that.

Yeah that. You can order those parts for cheap or you can get a rebuilt snout on eBay (with or without a performance pulley) and get your bearings changed at the same time.

 

[Fuji4]

I think the job is fair for a dealer. What is really killing the price is two things. 1. Dealer labor charges will be double an Indy. 2. If you source the parts yourself you can source from various dealers to get the lowest price on each part. But that might be marginal depending on how much your dealer hoses you for parts. I always bring all my own parts to my Indy. But occasionally they get into it and need some stupid tiny plug or bolt or gasket that I then have to go retrieve across town.

 

[Quijote]

Anytime I read about inflated dealer prices I recall when my sister found the passenger mirror of her Altima busted and hanging. Don't recall the rate (15+ years ago) but I know the dealer quoted 1.5-2 hours for the repair. I fixed it for her with no instructions in 45 minutes. As (bad) luck would have it, a few weeks later the same freaking mirror gets taken out again. The 2nd time it took me well under 30 minutes.

 

[pabs406]

Thanks Guys!!! I’m about to purchase these parts, but want to make sure these are them and not missing anything else that should be replaced. Also, if there is something that can be left out since nothing is broken right now, like the thermostat, gaskets, and thermostat hoses). My 2012 has 93,000 miles and none of these parts have been replaced. Much appreciated.

LR018275 - Tube Water Outlet
LR109402 - Heater Manifold Tube
LR011038 - Bleeder Cap
LR032135 - Thermostat
LR049989 - Thermostat to Engine Cooling Hose
LR045238 - Throttle Coolant Hose
LR010881 - Intake manifold gaskets
LR048165 - Throttle gaskets

 

[Davidinseattle]

How many here have had problems resulting in repair expense from these? Please email me at [email protected]

Rob, what did you end up doing here? Any updates on your situation?

 

[Michael Puig]

Iv'e been thinking about this issue for a while now. Lots of calls with 3D guys, custom tube guys, hydro form guys. Its just not practical. It would be possible to have a custom Hi Temp silicone solution but it still would be expensive.... Plastic is just cheap. Period. Replace all plastic at 50k onward just is good policy. I would like to see a test of wrapping the parts with insulation to see what happens - I suspect it would work but fail at the ends but thats just speculation

my 2 cents

 

[gsxr]

...and don't forget that the pH level of the coolant will affect plastic as well. It's not just heat that affects it.

 

[Michael Puig]

pH level..... hmmm - elaborate... that's another rabbit hole to go down. How does pH affect plastic??

Now Im thinking about Evans...

 

[Michael Puig]

this should be a separate thread but here we go..

https://forums.jag-lovers.com/t/evans-waterless-coolant/381616

 

[gsxr]

Of course I can't find any articles at the moment, but in Mercedes land where plastic radiator tanks have been used for decades, there has been speculation that plastic components are affected by both the "wrong" antifreeze in use (MB specs G-05 or G-48 for pretty much everything since the early 1980's), or if the antifreeze has been in use too long and the pH levels are out of spec.

It's always bothered me that JLR is using a variation of Dex-Cool, but I just buy the stuff from the dealer and try not to over-think it.

Evans is a completely different topic, and I personally wouldn't go down that route for the LR4. Too much hassle trying to get all the water out, unknown if the viscosity difference may affect liquid flow, etc. The LR4 cooling system is fantastic when the crossover pipes haven't broken. Probably easier to just replace those stupid things every XX miles.