75k mile service - diff and transfer case fluid change

[ryanjl]

Just for a laugh, I called a Land Rover dealership in-between Denver and Boulder to ask about buying some OEM transmission fluid and was quoted over $800 for 7 liters. LOL

That has to be the full job. I bought the kit from Atlantic British but called my local dealer to see how much the fluid was in case I needed more. It's less than $30 per liter.

 

[Jazzy]

Sounds like Monterey, CA prices...was quoted $1,400 to flush transmission fluid. Quoted over $700 to change transfer case and diff fluid.

 

[Jermgallo]

i have a 2011 LR4 and just hit 90k, its saying its recommended to change diff and transfer case fluids. I feel like if its shifting good and no noise from the diffs i should just leave it alone. I dont like opening something like that up that could cause more issues but im really not sure what to do since its my first one i've ever bought.

 

[ryanjl]

i have a 2011 LR4 and just hit 90k, its saying its recommended to change diff and transfer case fluids. I feel like if its shifting good and no noise from the diffs i should just leave it alone. I dont like opening something like that up that could cause more issues but im really not sure what to do since its my first one i've ever bought.

Fluid changes are supposed to be proactive, not reactive. If you wait until it feels like you need a fluid change, you've probably damaged something.

 

[magus]

Fluid changes are supposed to be proactive, not reactive. If you wait until it feels like you need a fluid change, you've probably damaged something.

This definitely... should be changed around 75k and it’s not like changing the fluids is a big mechanical risk.

 

[Robin Parsons]

I am at 80 on a 14 Disco 4. I torn as what to do with trainy. All dealers and 2 excellent shops say it is sealed for life. 3 dealers dont offer service 2 offer it, but must sign a waiver. One says it really should be done, other says it is a50/50 shot, as the flush systems can introduce micro contaminants and actually cause oroblems. 1 indy shop says the same, the other uses the AB kit.

My outback was sealed for life. Subaru bought me a new traney at 190,000 miles. I know JLR wont do it.

And 20k plus mikes past filter change experience on 2014 or newer 3.0l ? Enough miles past flush or AB kit to know the results?

 

[Pfunk951]

I chose not to listen to JLR, I listened to the manufacturer of the transmission, ZF. They say change it..

Since the dealership will not back up a stance of no maintenance, I find it speculative- and they find it profitable..

I say do what the design engineers intended, not what the recipient of your future repairs thinks..

YMMV,

Mike

 

[Azoo]

I plan on putting this in there when I do the service, this upcoming weekend: https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/LRN13754-MFG36.aspx

I am running Febi as well, so far i have done over 20,000Km since the change with no issues. I bought the 5 liter jug, I was able to drain 4.6L and i put the same amount back in. You will need gloves and long sleeve shirt like Pfunk951 said. I still have the scar on my arms from the exhaust burning the heck outta me. I plan to do my transfer case as well this summer. Any recommendations on which fluid brand to use ?

 

[BeemerNut]

Sounds like Monterey, CA prices...was quoted $1,400 to flush transmission fluid. Quoted over $700 to change transfer case and diff fluid.

I prefer the Pacific Grove residence of 5/8 acre on Crocker Ave in the heavily wooded area of PG vs Monterey.

Dealerships change the flavor of the week by using the lowest bulk price (highest profit) engine oil, anti freeze and gear oils. What prevents them from changing out ATF with some other brand which is compatible with LR's ZP box spec ATF?
To flush is a great way to disturb metallic as well worn clutch material and recirculate it vs leaving it settled down with only a filter and fluid change. Clean the pan and add a big disc magnet inside the pan.
In general by 40K miles ATF already smells burnt, why wait until 90K miles or a tranny failure to happen? What's so special about LR's dealership's ATF besides the high profit pricing unless each quart, sorry I mean litre cans has been personally autographed by the Queen Mum? .....~~=o&o>......

 

[TrinidadLR4]

I just did this service on Saturday. Overall, wasn't too bad. Some notes:

-For the most part, the video from Atlantic British is spot on and absolutely invaluable. Watch it, get all the bits ready in advance, it will save a lot of time. On mine, the heat shield and bracket under the pan was missing, they must have gotten rid of that thing in the LR4s(the vehicle in AB's video is an LR3). I cut the old neck off with a saw, didn't take too long.
-Almost 5L of fluid drained out, about the same amount went in. Not a huge fan of the way LR adapted this ZF transmission to fit in, the cross member and exhaust pipe get oil all over them. Oh well. Fluid used was Febi Bilstein with the LRN-13754 pn.
-I honestly liked to have used the old pan bolts again as they were beefy-looking T40s, rather than the relatively flimsy looking new allen bolts that were supplied. But, ended up using the new ones and torqued to 6 lb ft. Used permatex tack sealant on the gasket, no leaks so far, no issues.
-Truck had 76k on it. The old fluid looked OK, nothing terrible. Magnets had minimal shavings.
-I elected not to change the connector sleeve. Access looked particularly terrible and I was afraid to mess something up. It looked fine and I guess I can wait until/if it starts leaking. What are the symptoms when it does start to go?

The result is good. Shifts are super smooth(noticeably less rough), and the main difference I'm noticing so far is that when slowing down, it downshifts much more smoothly, whereas before it was much rougher and jerkier, especially when going 3->2 and 2->1

I also replaced all the diff fluids and the xfer case fluid. Went RP Synchromax in the xfer case and RP 75w90 for front and rear diffs. I have a rear locker.

Finally, I installed the dampener on the transfer case to quell the vibration/humming that was noticeable in a narrow rpm range(2500-3000rpm). There is a vacant hole in the transfer case housing. It appears unthreaded but I think it was threaded at one point and got oxidized over time, since there was nothing in there for so long. The re-threading was easy and now the vibrations/humming is gone.

One question: noticed that both driveshafts(front and rear) have a noticeable amount of play when turning them, along with some clicking. Is that normal? Driveline feels fine otherwise, when driving.

Overall, happy I did this. LCAs are next! Cheers!