Is this a failing crossover pipe?

[joeharby]

Hello all,

I purchased a 2013 LR4 a couple months ago with ~150,000 (incredibly good condition/looks almost new inside and out), but have been adding a pint of coolant every couple of weeks. I thought perhaps that it was a head gasket since I also have intermittent (very intermittent/historic) misfires on a couple cylinders.

I've replaced spark plugs and ignition coils (big improvement on misfires, but still present occasionally). I've now been running some Liqui Moly LM2030 Fuel System Cleaner and again, noticing improvement (perhaps I just need to replace the injectors too, and I need to stop being cheap)?

Last night I ran a hydrocarbon block test on the expansion tank, tried several times, fluid remained blue every time, so no exhaust gasses detected. However while I was in there wearing a headlamp, it was much easier to see things being out of direct sunlight, and I think I see dried up coolant residue on the rear crossover pipe. At least it looks like the rear crossover pipe to me. Thoughts?

 

[f1racer328]

If you have a black light/uv lamp, you can see the coolant pretty easily. It glows bright orange. (The factory coolant at least)

 

[joeharby]

If you have a black light/uv lamp, you can see the coolant pretty easily. It glows bright orange. (The factory coolant at least)

I've been using this coolant while I find the leak since it's available locally. Would it glow? https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...1HUc3Kk9kSltMYYOsgxoCoQMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

I've been using this coolant while I find the leak since it's available locally. Would it glow? https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze...1HUc3Kk9kSltMYYOsgxoCoQMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You should use the orange coolant, most auto-parts stores sell it, it's within spec, and its not expensive.

 

[txfromwi]

At ALL times need to use coolant that is OAT compatible. OAT = Organic Acid Technology

In an emergency I would use Prestone products.

I always use Rover fluids exclusively.
I know some will disagree, but I fail to see how saving pennies on other vendor products is cost effective - these things are finicky enough without inviting issues.

 

[djkaosone]

At ALL times need to use coolant that is OAT compatible. OAT = Organic Acid Technology

In an emergency I would use Prestone products.

I always use Rover fluids exclusively.
I know some will disagree, but I fail to see how saving pennies on other vendor products is cost effective - these things are finicky enough without inviting issues.

I completely flushed out front and rear hvac till clear and switched to dexcool, simply for availability.

Imagine having cooling issues deep in the middle of nowhere and somehow you dump a ton of coolant in +100*F weather. You only carry 1 gallon of coolant. Luckily a Jeep and I carry dexcool and was able to do a field repair and use 1.5 gallons of coolant. Yes, water would have been ok to use too, but it heats up way too quick.

I purchased a 2013 LR4 a couple months ago with ~150,000 (incredibly good condition/looks almost new inside and out), but have been adding a pint of coolant every couple of weeks.

Going back to OPs issue, I highly recommend that you overhaul your entire cooling parts when doing it. Front/rear crossover pipes, thermostat, water pump w/gaskets, oil cooler w/o-rings, and any bulging hoses. Last time I checked diy was less than $700 for all oem parts.

 

[ftillier]

Yes, water would have been ok to use too, but it heats up way too quick.

Water actually has a higher specific heat than coolant - the coolant makes it a worse coolant, but it won't freeze. Adding in the coolant will raise the boiling point a little, but not a ton. Preventing boiling is accomplished through pressurizing the system.

 

[Rover Range]

Also. Coolant is a lubricant and prevents cavitation in the coolant passages.

 

[gillygong]

Jumping in here to ask some advice about my LR4 w/ 142k miles.

I have dealer service records from the previous owner, where I can see that the front crossover pipe, thermostat, water pump, and some but not all hoses were replaced at 90k, and rear coolant manifold and radiator were replaced at 120k.

I know the rear crossover is way more of a pain, so is 20k on the rear too soon to worry?

There's currently a very slight leak form the radiator- assuming it would make sense to replace that at the same time, right?

 

[powershift]

My rear crossover leaked onto the top of the transmission. I'd look there and look underneath where you park to see if the coolant is leaking onto the ground when you are about to leave. If it is, then you can determine front or back and help narrow down where the leak is coming from. It could be the water pump too. Try to wiggle the fan. If it moves then that problem is a bad bearing on the water pump and a plausible source of the leak.