Terrafirma hidden winch install

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djkaosone

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@BznLR4 I changed the location of the controller and used 2 gauge welding wire.

Located next to the RH air box.
20210203_150852.jpg

This was a temporary bracket, but haven't revised it since it just worked.
20210203_150921.jpg

Here's my license plate cover flipped up.
20210203_150844.jpg

My license plate cover in normal position.
20210203_150830.jpg
 

BznLR4

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@djkaosone Thanks for the pics. What made you move it from the front grill to the airbox? After a bit of fabricating I got it mounted in basically the same location as you showed in the OP. The obvious downside is that one must remove the grill to connect the winch cable - but I suppose that would only be if/when the remote doesn't work.

Regarding upsized & welded cables - did you have problems with the OEM cables, or was that just precautionary?

BTW the location that Terrafirma shows (stashed beside the air distribution box inside of the bumper) seems like a really bad idea for the LR4! How would you connect the remove if that was ever needed?
 

djkaosone

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What made you move it from the front grill to the airbox?

I mounted lights and eas schaeder valves behind the grill.

Regarding upsized & welded cables - did you have problems with the OEM cables, or was that just precautionary?

My Terrafirma 12k winch had 2 gauge wire. I'm using the same gauge wire, but welding wire as it's rated higher than typical wires. Also, you're doubling the length of the original cable length.

BTW the location that Terrafirma shows (stashed beside the air distribution box inside of the bumper) seems like a really bad idea for the LR4! How would you connect the remove if that was ever needed?

It's actually at a really good spot up n out of the way. Won't get submerged in water and easy access when I need to plug my winch controller. If I ever need to remove the controller or air box it's 2 nuts and the controller just sits there. Again it was suppose to be temporary until I made better mounts, but it's been working for 3 years and I'm lazy.
 

BznLR4

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In the end I left the winch controller on a bracket behind the grill. It is nice to reach the ON/OFF switch and see the blue indicator LED's without opening the hood, but I may regret this for other reasons. If I were starting over I would probably put the controller behind the right headlight where there is a nice amount of space for it. However, it seems like this would require longer cables...so factor that in if taking on this project.

Here are some pics showing Cascadia 4x4 "Flipster" license plate mount and LED fairlead, and Factor55 Flatlink. The switch for the LED is in the footwell above the brake pedal so that it is convenient to switch on/off either from the driver's seat or standing outside the vehicle. I imagine this will be handy for my rather frequent application - pulling people out of snowbanks.

After butchering the bumper reinforcement the fog lights were sagging, so I used some bolts plus trim adhesive to reinforce and tie the reinforcement to the bumper "skin". The result came out pretty nice - hopefully it will perform well over time.

Next up - Cascadia 4x4 solar panel for the hood! I'm tires of seeing "battery low - please start engine" error.

LR4 Bumper Reinforcement.jpg


LR4 Winch.jpg


LR4 Winch2.jpg
 

greiswig

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Reviving this thread as I'm considering doing this same thing. But...I have zero experience with the Terrafirma winch or Superwinch, and I'm wondering if anyone has put this through it's paces? Is it capable enough with a low enough current draw?

I'm tempted to try the Sherpa 17k winch, even with the lower line speed.
 

BznLR4

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I used the winch quite a bit this summer, always worked great. Stock battery and alternator (no second battery)
 

mm3846

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If you aren't buying a made in the USA warn, or something crazy like a RED comp winch.. just buy the cheapest winch you can fit with a 10k rating. smittybuilt has a pretty good warranty.
 

greiswig

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I used the winch quite a bit this summer, always worked great. Stock battery and alternator (no second battery)
I'd love it if you could elaborate on this a bit. There's a big difference between using a winch to pull out your brother's ATV versus using one to get the LR4 up a steep, muddy hill with roots all over the place. I'm curious about how the duty cycle is on the winch, whether it would draw to much on the stock battery in an extended pull, etc.
 

BznLR4

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I was salvage logging firewood, pulling downed trees up a steep hillside (messy job - not recommended). Winch never overheated but it was only working hard for ~5 minutes at a time, max.
 

greiswig

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Well, the 500A relay will be my battery isolator, switched to the cabin. It is thermally protected at 500A and will disengage for overpower consumption. But at that point, I would have to use the 12k winch for a full length and full load pull over a long period of time without any cool off periods. It should also be connected directly to the starting battery since it's the shortest distance to your alternator (generator). You don't want the winch to run over a parallel battery setup with lots of wires between your winch and alternator, more potential to fry anything along that path.

So, I think the 500A switched relay to the starting battery will be just fine. If anyone would like to add to the debate, please let me know. Thanks!
@djkaosone I'm wondering what it is you're isolating with this relay, and how? Are you just using it as a thermal fuse? I'd expect the controller to have its own relays, so...

Basically, I'm not following. ;)
 

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