LR4 on 33's

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jwest

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Pikes Peak Rovers, Colorado Springs, CO

Funny you say 20's are a crap choice when this vehicle comes with 20's (obviously in certain trims). Stock wheels are alloy, so why can't I put different alloy wheels on? Load rating is pretty decent 2500 lbs per wheel

Yes, I actually have a cut a tire while on the trail. My Duratracs actually had a cut on the inside sidewall while I was on a trail that I had taken highway tires on before.

Just for you J, I'm gonna try to fit some 35's. 11-11.5 in width. FYI, that'd give roughly 7-7.5 inches of sidewall. About the same as a 33 on an 18 inch wheel, just more narrow. Just for you

A. I should clarify why I say "crap choice". Just because a 20 comes on the vehicle, doesn't mean it's the best choice for rock crawling, or anything other than highways for that matter. I'm not talking about load ratings or even the material it's made from, just the dimensions.

B. if you use a super low psi such as 20 like I can on the bfg km2 285/70-18, you will risk pinching the tire between rim lip and rock or root. In order to avoid this, you will be forced to use higher psi, probably around 35 or more. These is a significant advantage to using low psi which allows the tire to deform over the shape of whatever object.

C.you cannot make use of a 35 without a body lift, that is the next line crossed in maximum sizing.

Basically the lines are:

1-stock wheel and 31.2-31.5, no problem. No mods needed, even fits in spare tire location under vehicle. BFG runs small so the 31.2 or so 265/65x18 works great with no mods.

2- 32" requires mods. 275/65-18. BFG fits easier than Goodyear Duratrac or Michelin but the fit with the mods and snug 8 wheel.

3- 33.7" requires more mods such as 2" strut tower spacer and also requires 8" wheel tucked in as far as possible.

Basically if you cannot do a system deflate and drive around a parking lot to full lock both directions, onto a curb and turned, without hearing grinding, then they don't "fit" anymore than a shoe on your foot 2 sizes too big or too small.

Putting that tire you videod onto the rear, not lowering fully, not testing on the front, was like you getting some boots, putting one on your hand and saying "see, it could work" LOL ;)
 

jwest

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Here’s a BFG km2 285/70-18 on factory wheel. no spacer because they wouldn’t allow the tire to get that high without ripping into the fenders or turn up front without ripping into the bumper.
Shown here isn’t even an extreme flex situation, it gets worse on a real trail.
 

Bryan Jones

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Putting that tire you videod onto the rear, not lowering fully, not testing on the front, was like you getting some boots, putting one on your hand and saying "see, it could work" LOL ;)
As stated in the video, there are no mods done. I didn't even have the lift rods on. What's the point of lowering it all the way down, and turning it with it on the front wheel, and all this extra stuffs, if I know it won't work without modifications? That's useless. I literally just wanted to see what it would look like on the truck, and get an idea of what I would need to trim. It's pretty clear it won't fit. That's a given. Thanks Caption Obvious
 

Bryan Jones

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I'm tracking that I need to cut into the wheel wells, front bumper, and relocate stuffs. I already know this
 

jwest

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I also wanted to retain full function lowered for parking garages but that also simulates if air compressor dies or really wonky terrain.
 

jwest

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Rods do not magically create clearance if the air compressor is dead or if flex stuffs the tire up. Rods only affect a relative computer base point. Nothing more.
The mods you're planning will not help with the turning issues. You'll see. You'll learn a lot maybe. Too wide or too tall. You can't have both without a body lift. The strut spacer doesn't really help much with the turning issues. They only help with the maximum flex point up into the fender liner. The width will still be an issue though upon turning.

Doing the test in the front, lowered, you would see that a mere 2" spacer would probably not be enough to solve the problem. Data is useful even when it's far from the limit of function.

Unless you have a digital tool like the IIDtool or other computer interface, you won't be able to deflate all corners nor will you be able to rest the base height after the strut spacers are in. You need that tool so you aren't dependent on a shop. It's affordable at Lucky8 I think but also Atlantic British or Rovers North.
 

Bryan Jones

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What I'm asking you: I know the tires don't fit without trimming. So if the tire is on, and nothing is trimmed, why am I lowering it all the down?

That's pointless. I already know it's not going to fit or turn, because I have trimmed anything!

The turning issue, I'll figure something out
 

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