Living up to its unreliable history

[johnnwalters]

Getting back on topic: My 2010 is now approaching 180,000 miles and I'm still enjoying the vehicle immensely! Like any vehicle there are some things that go wrong from time to time but I've found that by being pro-active and ensuring that the required maintenance schedule is followed, it's a very reliable vehicle. I think as pointed out the issue was the previous owner and their apparent negligence toward the vehicle. Once those are taken care of you should find that the LR 4 will serve you well, IMHO.

 

[Quijote]

In general it doesn't hurt, but if using Top Tier every tank, you don't need to use additional cleaner very often. A bottle of Red Line SI-1, or can of BG 44K, won't hurt every year or two... but really is not needed every few months. If you do use a full bottle/can, try to do this on the tank just prior to an oil change, as the strong solvents can contaminate the oil a bit. If you want to use something more often, use a couple ounces of Red Line SI-1 per tank.

I did a lot of research on this years ago and my personal regimen is to use a full bottle right after purchasing a vehicle, as I have no idea what the previous owner(s) have used for fuel or additives. But afterwards, I don't add anything on a regular basis if the engine is running normally. Maybe a bottle of the good stuff every 5 years or so if I remember.

For a really good tech discussion on this, read the first Amazon review for SI-1 by "Slipstreampilot" at this link. This also explains why some additives are more expensive than others, due to the PEA levels. There was a different SI-1 review where someone had monitored MPG data over the long term and found a noticeable, repeatable improvement with the ounce or two per tank... can't find that review at the moment though.

Hmmm... I've never added this stuff to my LR4 or any of my other cars. Always used Shell V-Power 93 or equivalent. I'm at almost 5 years and 32k miles.

Should I use a bottle? LR4 runs perfectly.

 

[gsxr]

Hmmm... I've never added this stuff to my LR4 or any of my other cars. Always used Shell V-Power 93 or equivalent. I'm at almost 5 years and 32k miles.

Should I use a bottle? LR4 runs perfectly.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I also use Shell V-Power or Chevron as those are both located near where I live.

With such low miles you may not need to worry about additives, yet.

 

[ryanjl]

Land Rover recommends BG 44K in certain situations:

http://www.draytondistributors.com/...TB00409NAS2d_BG-206-Air-Intake_BG-208-44K.pdf

 

[mrlifter]

I have a LR4 2010 and bought it at 3 yrs old and yes I have had problems but so far this vehicle has never let me down. In the first few months I had battery failure unly to be told it isn't covered by warranty. having been in forklifts for the last 30 years of my working live I know a few things about batteries. The battery was actually sulphated due to continually being run down below a safe voltage (the previous owner had specified a TV as an optional extra so I assume he had sat there watching TV or his kids) I tested the battery and presented the findings to the dealer they checked the battery out after I had given them my findings. A new battery was fitted F.O.C and then I was told the battery that came off was not the original so it had eaten 2 batteries before I bought it.

Routine service is a must on any vehicle and yes their charges are horendous but I was using an independant garage who carried out the correct maintence to LR spec.

I understood that the auto gearbox was sealed for life but now find out that LR specify fluid and filter change at 9 years or 144,000 miles. ZF specify 60,000 miles or earlier if used for towing. I had the gearbox back flushed and new fluid used but now I am having probs with it dropping out of gear down hill at 15/20 MPH but runs ok other than that. It has been into a dealership while on holiday £325 but
not fixed so it is going into local dealers on Friday 3rd Aug. The people who back flushed it are not a LR dealership but have been working or LR vehicles for over 25 years, I am wondering if the fluid they used is causing the problem.

Any body else had this problem

mrlifter

 

[BrandonM7]

So far so good with both of ours (LR4 and RRS,) with the exception of the one major gripe I have with these vehicles - those stupid ass control arm bushings. There is no reason a vehicle should need new control arm bushings so early. Everyone here justifies it to themselves as being due to weight, but I assure that's a load of crap. There are plenty of vehicles as heavy or heavier that can go for a very long time without needing them replaced. I know, I've owned many.

 

[Quijote]

So far so good with both of ours (LR4 and RRS,) with the exception of the one major gripe I have with these vehicles - those stupid ass control arm bushings. There is no reason a vehicle should need new control arm bushings so early. Everyone here justifies it to themselves as being due to weight, but I assure that's a load of crap. There are plenty of vehicles as heavy or heavier that can go for a very long time without needing them replaced. I know, I've owned many.

I think it probably has to do with a desire to make the ride comfortable.

 

[ktm525]

Exactly.

 

[BrandonM7]

I think it probably has to do with a desire to make the ride comfortable.

Okay, I'll add to it - lots of vehicles are both comfortable and heavy and manage to not run through control arm bushings every 50-60k miles. That part is either under-engineered or poorly made, plain and simple. I'm not crapping on the vehicle, I love them. I wouldn't have two if that weren't true. But there's no valid defense for that one screw-up.

 

[mbw]

It's just a design trade off. The L319 is amazing in my view for being as heavy as they are, as stiff, and yet ride the way they do. The suspension is beefy like a 3/4 ton truck, but they are so much more polished and precise than similar weight platforms.