Brake Pads and Rotors

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ANGLR4

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OK, I have read through all the threads and I see all the posts about brakes but can't find anything on aftermarket supplies. So, do I really need to go OEM on my brake pads and parts? I am just doing the rear and see no problem with AutoZone or O'Reilly or any of the other suppliers. It's not really an issue of money (other than I am unemployed until the budget gets passed), but it's an issue of practicality and convenience. I can get super-allow, titanium reinforced, drilled for releasing the build-up of gasses (do they really exist?) rear rotors but don't see the advantage. I can order the OEM but history dictates they'll wear out before the previously identified budget gets passed. I understand the fact that due to the performance of stopping an Abrams Tank at 70 mph in less than 7 feet is quite an achievement, and I for one am proud of my stopping abilities, but has anyone had problems with traditional aftermarket rotors and semi-metallic pads? I know, you get what you pay for, but if OEM wear out from anywhere between 12k and 24K miles and these are on the rear where less breaking is performed than on the fronts, am I really getting THAT much better because I spent $344.95 plus shipping instead of $220 plus a drive to O'Reilly's?
Please, let me hear it, just be gentle.
Thanks,
ANGLR4
 

Biagetti

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Just my advice as I received great input from fellow members when I was to replace rear pads and rotors on my LR3. I haven't really reviewed what I replaced a while back... but the below combination has been great. The reduced amount of brake dust with the Akebono pads is incredible and I'm looking forward for my fronts to wear more to replace the OEM to match the rears. I don't have a mileage report for you as its been about 5k miles... everything is still looking and reacting great.

placeforbrakes.com

EUR1099 Akebono Euro Ultra Premium
Ceramic - Rear Land Rover LR3 - 2006 1 $60.91 $60.91
------
GD1340 EBC Sport Rotor (Dimpled &
Slotted) Rotor Set - Rear; Set of Two, 2006 Land
Rover LR3 , SE; V8 - 4.4L,
13.9 in. Dia. 1 $307.06 $307.06
------
Subtotal: $367.97
EBC18 18% OFF On Any EBC Order Over $200.00 Discount: -$55.27
Tax: $21.89
Shipping: $0.00
Total: $334.59
 

eljefe

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i would stay away from autozone or oreilley. They wear out too fast. I just purchased ebc rotors slotted for front and ebc green pads for front. work great.
 

Daniel Hull

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I had my fronts replaced (35K miles) at an independent shop and they used non-OEM pads and rotors (backs were still good for now). The difference I can tell is this:

when driving off-road, I've noticed a metallic rattle coming from the front wheels. I looked around and didn't see anything obviously loose, and normal roads aren't bumpy enough to create it. So I'm suspicious that the anti-rattle clip fitting with the non-OEM pads is not up to the job...just my guess. I never noticed this noise prior to the pad replacement...but since it had been a few months since I had off-roaded there is a chance the noise was there before. Also the new pads squeal worse than the old (which also squealed).

I heard there were some changes made to the shape of the OEM pads over time, so they may be better and worth it.
 

Disco Mike

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Use only Akebono pads if you want to stop better, have no brake dust and last longer.
Don't go with semi-metal pads, they noramaly squeak, make lots of brake dust and won't stop as well as Akebono ceramics.
 

lexman34

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I am curious as well as people have owned the LR4 for almost 4 years now. I am wondering if aftermarket pads and rotors are the way to go or just keep going to the dealer for their nice expensive shiny one of a kind pads and rotor?

I went the aftermarket route one time in my 4 years and it cost me. I had to go to the dealer to get the pads changed and they refused to do it unless i changed the rotors as well back to original parts. Nice lesson i learned that time but now there places to go to get these brakes fixed. Options have spread out but at the end of the day i need value for my $$
 

94speedster

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My 2011 LR4 just hit 77,500 miles yesterday - so I decided to take a good look at the brake pads and rotors last night. I have a scissor lift, so took the wheels off and pulled out a flashlight and micrometer...

My rotors are original, and now have 77,500 miles on them. The fronts are down to 28.2mm, and the rears are at 17.8mm. They are getting close to MIN THICKNESS, so I will change them once the pads are worn out w/i the next 3k miles or so...

My pads were replaced ONCE at 37,798 (F) and 41,399 (R). They are getting low (7mm MIN), but still have life. I did remove the pad sensors during my last change b/c I think the sensor will trigger an event prematurely - there is still life in those pads!

Based on these measurements, I am getting 40,000 miles out of my genuine LR pads, and 80,000 miles out of my genuine LR rotors. I guess I am just not seeing the high wear that you guys are... If I were to think about conspiracy theories, it would be in the best interest if the dealer to have their customers change rotors & pads as frequently as they can ($$$)!

I have been buying parts from British Atlantic in the past. This time, I will buy BA's "After Market" rotors which cost $90(F-ea) and $48(R-ea). I am also planning to try to Delphi "OEM" pads that cost $75(F-pr) and $34(R-pr).

I'll keep you guys posted on the Delphi pads...

-Blake
 

waltzonice

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My 2011 LR4 just hit 77,500 miles yesterday - so I decided to take a good look at the brake pads and rotors last night. I have a scissor lift, so took the wheels off and pulled out a flashlight and micrometer...

My rotors are original, and now have 77,500 miles on them. The fronts are down to 28.2mm, and the rears are at 17.8mm. They are getting close to MIN THICKNESS, so I will change them once the pads are worn out w/i the next 3k miles or so...

My pads were replaced ONCE at 37,798 (F) and 41,399 (R). They are getting low (7mm MIN), but still have life. I did remove the pad sensors during my last change b/c I think the sensor will trigger an event prematurely - there is still life in those pads!

Based on these measurements, I am getting 40,000 miles out of my genuine LR pads, and 80,000 miles out of my genuine LR rotors. I guess I am just not seeing the high wear that you guys are... If I were to think about conspiracy theories, it would be in the best interest if the dealer to have their customers change rotors & pads as frequently as they can ($$$)!

I have been buying parts from British Atlantic in the past. This time, I will buy BA's "After Market" rotors which cost $90(F-ea) and $48(R-ea). I am also planning to try to Delphi "OEM" pads that cost $75(F-pr) and $34(R-pr).

I'll keep you guys posted on the Delphi pads...

-Blake
Thanks so much for this info -- very informative. My rear brakes were squeaking at around 33,000 miles. Pads were down to around 3mm I believe (brake lights had not come on the dash yet). The dealer insisted on replacing the brake pads and rotors because in their experience, replacing just the pads and not the rotors can cause issues. I thought this was BS, but I allowed them to replace both anyway.

Now my front brakes are starting to squeak at around 41,000 miles. Again, the brake light on my dash has not come on yet, but I'm pretty sure I'll need to replace my front brakes soon. I might try an independent LR mechanic this time to get their opinion. I don't want to replace the rotors unnecessarily.
 

umbertob

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Somewhat related, I caught this Special Service Message on TOPIx:

Reference SSM68798
Models Range Rover Sport / L320, LR4 / L319
Title Front Brake Pad Replacement LR051626
Category Chassis
Last modified 14-Oct-2013 00:00:00
Symptom 301000 Service Brake System
Content
Issue:
When replacing the brake pads for any reason, dealers are reporting confusion between the old and new level parts. Affected brake pad part number is LR051626

Cause:
Parts have been incorrectly stamped LH and RH on the outer brake pads. See attached photo.

Action:
Please refer to TOPIx, section 206-03 Brake Pads, vehicles with standard brakes. It is important to note that the small mass fitted to the outer brake pad is always at the top of the caliper regardless of any writing which may be found on the outer brake pad itself.

Manufacturing have rectified this concern and brake pads manufactured from 15th August 2013 are labeled correctly.

Ferodo.jpg
 

94speedster

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My 2011 LR4 just hit 77,500 miles yesterday - so I decided to take a good look at the brake pads and rotors last night. I have a scissor lift, so took the wheels off and pulled out a flashlight and micrometer...

My rotors are original, and now have 77,500 miles on them. The fronts are down to 28.2mm, and the rears are at 17.8mm. They are getting close to MIN THICKNESS, so I will change them once the pads are worn out w/i the next 3k miles or so...

My pads were replaced ONCE at 37,798 (F) and 41,399 (R). They are getting low (7mm MIN), but still have life. I did remove the pad sensors during my last change b/c I think the sensor will trigger an event prematurely - there is still life in those pads!

Based on these measurements, I am getting 40,000 miles out of my genuine LR pads, and 80,000 miles out of my genuine LR rotors. I guess I am just not seeing the high wear that you guys are... If I were to think about conspiracy theories, it would be in the best interest if the dealer to have their customers change rotors & pads as frequently as they can ($$$)!

I have been buying parts from British Atlantic in the past. This time, I will buy BA's "After Market" rotors which cost $90(F-ea) and $48(R-ea). I am also planning to try to Delphi "OEM" pads that cost $75(F-pr) and $34(R-pr).

I'll keep you guys posted on the Delphi pads...

-Blake

Our LR4 just hit 106,000 miles so I wanted to provide an update:
*Delphi pads have good life left, and should hit 40k like the OEMs. BUT - they SQUEEL like a banshee, and man they produce brake dust! I may swap to OEMs any day now...
*British Atlantic's After Market Rotors MAY be starting to warp up front. Under heavy breaking in 90+ degree temps, the rotors & pads shimmy. I plan to replace the pads, and will report back...

-B
 

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